LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 
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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



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OR. 



SUCCESSFUL MANAGEMENT OF TIE APIARY, 



BV 



THOMAS G. NEWMAN, 

[Editor of the American Bee Journal.] 



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CHICAGO : 

THOMAS G. NEWMAN & SON, 

972 & 974 West Madison Street. 

Printed in both English and German; Price 4©c. for either Edition. 



PUBLICATIONS FOR THE APIARY, 

FOR SALE AT THE OFFICE OF 

The American Bee Journal, 

974 West Madison Street, Chicago, 111. 

m *• «^ ■« ♦ ■ — - 

COOK'S NEW MANUAL. OF THE APIARY. 

Thte is a new edition of Prof. Cook's Manual of the Apiary, entirely re-written, 
greatly enlarged and supurbly illustrated. 

Being new, it is fully up with the times on every conceivable subject that 
interests the apiarist. It is not only instructive, but intensely interesting. 

It comprises a full delineation of the anatomy and physiology of the Honey- 
Bee, illustrated with costly wood engravings, full descriptions of honey-pro- 
ducing plants, trees and shrubs, &c, splendidly illustrated— and last, though not 
least, detailed instructions for the successful accomplishment of all the various 
manipulations necessary in the apiary. 

This work is a masterly production, and one that no bee-keeper, however 
limited his means, can afford to do without. 

It is printed in the best style of the art, on fine book paper, and superbly illus- 
trated throughout. Price, bound in cloth, $1.25,'postpaid ; in paper binding, $1.00, 
postpaid. 

THE HIVE AND HONEY-BEE, by L. L. Langs troth. 

This is a standard volume, well illustrated and nicely printed. Price, $2.00. 

MYSTERIES OF BEE-KEEPING, by M. Qulnby. 

The author has treated the subject of Bee-Keepmg in a manner that cannot 
fail to interest all who read this work. Price, $1.50. 

THE DZIERZON THEORY ; being a full elucidation of Scien- 
tific Bee-Keeping. 

This "theory" presents in the form of distinct propositions, the fundamental 
principles of bee-culture, and in this work the late Baron of Berlepsch furnishes 
a condensed statement of the facts and arguments by which these propositions 
are demonstrated. It is of untold value to beginners and all others who desire 
to study the subject of apiculture. It is just what thousands want. 

It contains 50 pages and is printed on fine book paper. Price, postpaid, 20 cents, 
or three copies for 50 cents. 

HONEY, AS FOOD AND MEDICINE, by the Editor of the 
American Bee Journal. 

This is a pamphlet of 24 pages, discoursing upon the Ancient History of Bees 
and Honey ; the nature, quality .sources, and preparation of Honey for the Mar- 
ket : Honey, as an article of Food, giving recipes for making Honey Cakes, 
Cookies, Puddings, Foam, Wines, &c. ; and Honey as Medicine, followed by 
many useful Kecipes . It is intended for consumers, and should be scattered by 
thousands all over the country, and thus assist in creating a demand for honey.— 
Prices : Single copies, 10 cents postpaid ; 15 copies for $1.00 by mail, postpaid ; 100 
copies, with name and address of honey-producer printed on them, $5.00 by mail, 
postpaid ; 250 copies, by express, at 4 cents each ; 500 or more copies, by express, 
at '6 cents each. It is published in German also at the same prices. 

WINTERING BEES ; How to do it Successfully. 

This contains all the Prize Essays on this impartant subject that were read 
before the Centennial Bee-Keepers' Association. The prize ($25 in gold) was 
awarded to Prof. Cook's Essay, which is reported in full in this pamphlet. 

It contains 30 pages and is printed on fine book paper. Price, 15 cents, or five 
copies for 50 cents. 

SPECIAL EDITION of the Journal. 

Containing the Official Report of the Proceedings of the National Convention, 
held in New York, Oct., 1G-18, 1877, with all the Essays and Discussions,— together 
with a description of the implements for the Apiary, on exhibition at the Ameri- 
can Institute Fair.— Price 10 cents. 

Send by Postal Money Order, Draft or Registered Letter at our risk. 

THOMAS G. NEWMAN & SON, 

974 West Madison Street, Chicago, 111. 



BEE 



CULTURE; 

OR, 

SUCCESSFUL MANAGEMENT 



OP 



THE APIARY. 

BY 

THOMAS G. NEWMAN, 

Editor of the "American Bee Journal." 



CHICAGO : 
THOMAS G. NEWMAN & SON, 

1879. 



Q(ohk 



7T 






Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1878, by 

THOMAS G. NEWMAN & SON, 

In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. 



\J 



PREFACE. 



It is now everywhere admitted that to be a profitable pur- 
suit, Bee-keeping must be conducted on scientific principles. 
The old manner of management, (or rather mis-manage- 
ment,) permitting the bees to use log-gums, hollow trees, or 
old boxes for hives, can no longer be tolerated. The con- 
sumer, the retailer, and the wholesale dealer in honey, all 
demand that surplus honey shall either be extracted from 
the comb upon scientific principles, by improved machinery, 
or else be produced in single comb frames or boxes, in order 
to attract the eye as well as to please the palate. 

To induce the practice of scientific management of the 
apiary is the object of these pages, and to that end we shall 
not only give our own views and experiences, but we shall 
also quote from those who have repeatedly practiced with 
success the plans and manipulations recommended. 

This pamphlet is not designed to supersede or supplant 
any of the valuable works on apiculture already published, 
but will supply a want for a cheap work for the beginner. 

When this is thoroughly perused, the enquiring mind is 
directed to Cook's Manual of the Apiary, for ,a more 
full treatise on Bee Culture. Prof. Cook is an entomologist, 
a botanist, a passionate lover of the honey bee, and his 
work of some 300 pages is the newest and most complete 
ever yet produced, and receives the hearty endorsement of 

THE AUTHOR. 




Fig. 53.— Alsike Clover. 



COITTENTS. 



Natural History op the Honey-Bee. 

Introduction 11 

The Races of Bees 13 

The Queen Bee 13 

The Drone Bee 16 

The Worker Bee 17 

Brood 19 

Production of Wax and Comb 20 

Pollen, or Bee-Bread 24 

Propolis, or Bee G-lue 24 

The Establishment op an Apiary. 

Situation, Stocking and Arrangement 25 

Bee-Keeping a Science 25 

Who should keep Bees 26 

Suitable Location 26 

Which way should hives face 28 

When to commence 28 

How many Colonies to begin with 28 

Removing Bees 28 

What kind of Bees to get 29 

Buying Swarms 30 

How to care for a first Colony 30 

Bees kept on Shares 30 

Bees Marking their Location 31 

Changing the Location 31 

Preparation of Bees for Winter 32 

Clipping the Queen's Wings 33 

Bee Enemies 33 

Luck or Science ? Which ? 33 

W r ill Bees Injure Fruit # . . . 34 

Honey Bloom 34 



8 bee culture. ( 

Hives and Surplus Honey Receptacles. 

The Langstroth Hive 36 

The Production of Choice Honey 38 

Making Hives and Surplus Boxes 43 

How shall Honey be placed upon the Market ? .... 45 

Assort and Grade the Honey 47 

How to get Bees out of Honey Boxes 47 

Management of Comb Honey , 47 

The Honey Extractor and its Use. 

When to use the Honey Extractor 50 

How to Extract 52 

Comb Foundation and its Use. 

Results of Experiments , 53 

New Comb is desirable 54 

Fastening Comb Foundation 55 

How to cut it to desired sizes 55 

Should Comb Foundation be Thin or Thick ? 56 

Comb Foundation in Surplus Boxes 56 

Are the Corrugations Advantageous ? 57 

Preserve the Wax 57 

Facts worth Remembering 58 

Italianizing an Apiary. 

Superiority of Italians ... 59 

Introducing a Queen 60 

Inserting a Queen-Cell 62 

Nucleus Colonies 64 

Dividing the Colonies 65 

Swarming ; how to Control it 67 

How to Hive a Swarm 69 

The Loss of the Queen 69 

What are Fertile Workers 71 

Transferring Bees from Box Hives 72 

Transferring Bees from Movable Frame Hives 74 

Uniting Weak Colonies 74 

Managing and Quieting Bees. 

Feeding Bees 75 

Robber Bees 75 

Quieting and Handling Bees 77 

Shipping Queens and Colonies . . 78 

Bee Diseases ,-.. . 79 



LIST OF KLUSTRATKWS. 



PAGE. 

1. Queen Bee, magnified 14 

2. Head of Queen, magnified 14 

3. Ovaries of the Queen, magnified 15 

4. The Drone Bee, magnified 16 

5. Head of the Drone, magnified 17 

6. Worker Bee, magnified 18 

7. Head of the Worker Bee, magnified 18 

8. Anterior Leg of Worker, magnified 19 

9. Eggs and Brood, magnified 19 

10. Under Surface of Worker showing Wax 20 

11. Part of a Frame of Brood 23 

12. Old-style Langstroth Hive 36 

13. New-style Langstroth Hive 37 

14. Comb Honey Rack 38 

15. Prize Honey Box 39 

16. Dove-tailed Section 39 

17. Moore's Honey Box 40 

18. Case of Prize Boxes for Langstroth Hive 40 

19. Case of Eight Small Sections for Langstroth Hive. . . 41 

20. Shipping Crate to contain 12 Prize Boxes 41 

21. Tin Points for Glassing Boxes 42 

22. Comb Honey Carrier 42 

23. Foot-Power Saw 43 

24. Hand Rip-Saw 45 

25. Excelsior Honey Extractor 50 

26. Strainer to cover Entrance to Honey Gate 51 

27. Comb Basket of Excelsior Extractor 51 

28. Scofield Honey Knife 52 

29. Comb Foundation 53 

30. Comb Foundation Machine 54 

31. Bases and Cross-Sections of Cells 54 

32. Carlin's Foundation Cutter 55 

33. Grooved Board for Cutting Starters 56 

34. Swiss Wax Extractor 57 

35. Mandible of Queen, magnified 60 

36. Valentine's Frame Stand 61 

37. Atomizer for Spraying Bees 62 



10 



BEE CULTURE. 



PAGE. 

38. Finished Queen Cell, ceiled over 63 

39. A Ripe Queen Cell 63 

40. Division Board 64 

41. Davis' Queen Nursery 66 

42. Queen Registering Slate 67 

43. Legs of Italian Worker Bee 70 

44. Ovaries of a Fertile Worker 71 

45. Frame of Transferred Comb 72 

46. Wired Sticks, for Transferring 73 

47. Transferring Board 74 

48. Yan DeusenBee-Feeder 76 

49. Method of Filling Van Deusen Bee-Feeder 76 

50. Simplicity Bee Feeder 76 

51. Bingham Smoker 77 

52. Bee Veil — complete face protection 77 

53. Alsike Clover , 4 

54. Scovell Queen Cage. . , 78 

55. Simplicity Queen Cage 79 

56. White Clover , 10 




Fig. 56.— White Clover 



NATURAL HISTORY OF THE HONEY BEE. 



INTRODUCTION. 

Every apiarist should be well informed, not only on the 
habits, but also on the Natural History of the Honey Bee. 

Man's primeval state, no doubt, absolutely demanded 
honey — therefore to have neglected to produce such a crea- 
ture as the Honey Bee, so essential to the comfort of man, 
"for whom all things were made," would have been totally 
discordant with the well-known principles of universal and 
Divine benevolence. Could any song of birds in Eden's 
enchanting bower surpass the mellifluous hum of the busy 
Bee ? Could any sportive gambol, circling flight, sudden 
dart, or graceful curve of bird on the wing, equal the grace 
and beauty, the action and the science of her aerial sports 
or daily duties ? Could the combined aroma and symmetri- 
cal form of the thousands of " the flowers of Paradise " com- 
pare with the sweetness of her honey or the garniture of her 
store house ? Could any portion of " the garden," which 
Adam was directed to "dress and keep," present greater 
attraction, or have stronger claims upon his protection and 
care ? 

While Honey was "from the beginning" among the first 
of sweet things, and the sweetest of first things, given by the 
Creator to man, — sugar is, separated from ifcs source and 
prepared for use by the hand of man, but of modern birth ! — 
For thousands of years Honey was man's only sweet, and 
source of nourishment, — but only for a short time has sugar 
had its partial sway — and that alone in modern times. The 
former was the creation and gift of God ! The latter is 
the invention of man ! 

No historian has been able to transmit to our day, a 



12 BEE CULTURE. 

description of the rude home that Noah provided for the 
bees that he carried into the ark, nor tell us if Abraham's 
bees were kept in log-gums or box hives, but it is recorded 
that the land where Abraham dwelt — Canaan — was one 
"flowing with milk and honey;"and when the old Patriarch, 
because of the famine that prevailed there, sent his sons to 
Egypt to buy corn, he sent as a present to the Egyptian 
ruler some of Canaan's famous honey. — Gen. 43 : 11. 

We may well conclude that Canaan's honey was then as 
famous as in subsequent ages was the honey from Mount 
Hymettus, in Greece. 

The earliest mention of honey as an article of commerce, 
is, that the Jews were engaged in trading it at Tyre, that old 
and honored mart of trade in Phoenicia. — Ezek. 27 : 17. 

Sirach, who lived about the time of the re-building of the 
Temple at Jerusalem, speaking of the necessaries of life, 
mentions honey, with flour and milk. 

The Persians, Grecians and Romans, used honey quite 
extensively as an article of diet ; they also used it largely in 
preparing their food, and by it, most of their beverages were 
sweetened. 

Ancient Sages, among whom were Homer, Herodotus, 
Cato, Aristotle, Yarro, Yirgil, Pliny and Columella, 
composed poems extolling the activity, skill and economy of 
bees, and in more modern times, among such authors have 
been Swammerdam, a German naturalist ; Maraldi, an Italian 
mathematician ; Schirach, a Saxon priest ; Reaumur, inventor 
of a themometer ; Bonnet, a Swiss entomologist ; Dr. John 
Hunter ; and Francis Huber, who, though totally blind, was 
noted for his many minute observations, by the aid of his 
assistant, Burnens, which caused quite a revolution in 
ancient theories concerning the Honey Bee. He was also 
assisted by Mdle. Jurine, who, by delicate microscopic 
examinations, rendered important service not only to Huber, 
but also to future generations. 

But space forbids us to enumerate all the apiarists of the 
present age — prominent among whom we may mention 
Dzierzon, Yon Berlepsch, Leuckart, Yon Siebold, Sir John 
Lubbock, the Bev. L. L. Langstroth, Samuel Wagner, M. 
Quinby, Adam Grimm, J. S. Harbison, Capt. J. E. Hether- 



BEE CULTURE. 13 

ington, Professor A. J. Cook, and a mighty host of others, 
who, through faith in scientific research and devotion to 
experiments and manipulations, have wrought wonders with 
their Bees. "Pulling down the strong-holds" of old-fogy 
opposition, they "waxed valiant in fight" against all forms 
of ignorant and fossilized theories, consigning them to a 
burial with the fallacies of past ages — and, as if by magic 
wand, they have bidden modern ideas and scientific manage- 
ment of the Apiary to " arise and shine" sending its benign 
influences to the very ends of the earth ! 

THE RACES OF BEES. 

Of the different races of the Honey Bee, the G-erman or 
black bee is the most numerous, though it is not older than 
the Italians, which were known to the ancients several hun- 
dred years before the Christian era, and are mentioned by 
Aristotle and Virgil. The Egyptian, Carniolan, Cyprian 
and Javan bees are but little known in this country. The 
Italian being the favorite because of its docility, activity and 
captivating beauty. 

A COLONY OF BEES. 

In its usual working condition, a colony of bees presents 
a scene of the most lively interest, not only to the naturalist, 
but also to every curious observer. Such a colony will con- 
tain a fertile Queen, thirty to forty thousand of workers, and 
in some seasons, a few hundreds of drones. 

THE QUEEN. 

The Mother Bee, as she is called in many countries, 
especially in Italy, is the only perfect female in the Colony, 
and is the mother of it. Her only duty is to lay the eggs for 
the propagation of the species. She is a little larger around 
the body than the Worker, but not as large as the Drone. — 
Her body is longer than the Worker, but her wings are only 
about two-thirds of the length of the body, her abdomen 
gradually tapering to a point. She has a sting, but uses it 
only upon royalty. 

The Queen usually leaves the hive only when accompany- 
ing a swarm, and when a few days old, to meet the drones, 



14 



BEE CULTURE. 



for the purpose of becoming fertile. Once becoming such 
she is so for life, though she often lives three or four years. 
On her return to the hive, after meeting the Drones, if she 
has been fecundated, the male organs may be seen attached 




Fig. 1. — Tlie Queen Bee, magnified. 

to her abdomen. In about two days after thus mating with 
the Drone she will commence to lay eggs, and she is capable 
of laying two thousand, or more, eggs per day. 

Instinct teaches the Workers the necessity of having a 
Queen that is prolific, and should she become barren from 




Fig. 2. — Head of Queen, magnified. 

any cause, or be lost, they immediately prepare to raise 
another to take her place. This they do by building Queen 
cells, and if, when these are about one-half completed, the 
Queen has not deposited eggs in any of them, they take 



BEE CULTURE. 



15 



eggs from worker cells and supply them. By feeding the 
embryo Queen with royal jelly, the egg that would have pro- 
duced a Worker, had it remained in a Worker cell, becomes 
a Queen. 

The Ovaries of the Queen, occupying a large portion of 
the abdomen, will be found to be two pear-shaped 
bodies, composed of 160 to 180 minute tubes, the tubes 
being bound together by enveloping air vessels. These are 
the ovaries, of which a highly magnified view is here given. 




Fig. 3. — The Ovaries of the Queen, 

The germs of the eggs originate in the upper ends of the 
tubes which compose the ovary, and the eggs develop in their 
onward passage, so that at the time of the busy laying season, 
each one of the tubes will contain, at its lower end, one or 
more mature eggs, with several others in a less developed 
state following them. These tubes terminate on each side 
in the oviduct, through which the egg passes into the 
vagina ; and, in the cut, an egg will be seen in the oviduct, 
on the right. (Fig. 3). A globular sac will be noted, 
attached to the main oviduct by a short, tubular stem. 
A French naturalist, M. Audouin, first discovered the trur^ 



16 BEE CULTURE. 

character of this sac as the spermatheca, which contains the 
male semen ; and Prof. Leuckart computes its size as suffi- 
cient to contain, probably, twenty-five millions of seminal 
filaments. It seems hardly possible that so large a number 
should ever be found in the spermatheca, as it would require 
nearly twenty years to exhaust the supply, if the queen 
should lay daily 2000 eggs, 365 days in the year, and each 
egg be impregnated. Each egg which receives one of the 
seminal filaments in passing, will produce a worker or queen, 
while an unimpregnated egg will produce only a drone. The 
spermatheca of an unfecundated queen contains only a trans- 
parent liquid with no seminal filaments, and the eggs of such 
a queen produce only drones. 

The Queen usually lays from February to October, but 
early in the spring she lays sparingly. When fruit and 
flowers bloom, and the bees are getting honey and pollen, she 
lays more rapidly. 

THE DRONES. 

These are non-producers, and live on the toil and industry 
of others. They are the males, and have no sting — neither 




Fig. 4. — The Drone Bee, magnified. 
have they any means of gathering honey or secreting wax, or 
doing any work that is even necessary to their own support, 
or the common good of the colony. 

The Drones are shorter, thicker and more bulky than the 
Queen, and their wings reach the entire length of their 
body. They are much larger and clumsier than the 
Workers, and are covered with a short but fine hair. Their 



BEE CULTURE. 17 

buzzing when on the wing is much louder and differs from 
the others. Their only use is to serve the Queen when on 
her "bridal trip." 

Not more than one in a thousand is ever privileged to 
perform that duty, but as the Queen's life is very valuable, 
and the dangers surrounding her flight are numerous, it is 
necessary to have a sufficient number of them, in order that 
her absence from the hive may not be protracted. After 
mating, she returns to the hive a fertile Queen for life. 

The Drone in the act of copulation loses his life, dying 
instantly. At the approach of the swarming season they are 




Fig. 5. — Head of Drone, magnified. 

Tcared to fertilize the young Queens ; after that is accom- 
plished, they are mercilessly destroyed by the Workers. 

Should a colony lose its Queen, the Drones will be 
retained later; instinct teaching them that without the 
Drone, the young Queen would remain unfertilized, and the 
colony soon become extinct. 

THE WORKERS. 

These are undeveloped females, and they do all the work that 
is done in the hive. They secrete the wax, build the comb, 
gather the pollen for the young, and honey for all ; feed and 
rear the brood, and fight all the battles necessary to defend 
the colony. 

Of the three kinds of bees, these are the smallest, but 
constitute the great mass of the population. They possess 



18 BEE CULTURE. 

the whole ruling power of the colony and regulate its 
economy. 

The workers are provided with a sack or honey-bag ; there 
is a small cavity on their posterior legs, (Fig. 43, A.) in which 
they store the pollen of flowers in very small lumps, being 




Pig. 6. — The Worker Bee, magnified. 

the most convenient form in which to carry it home. They 
are also provided with a sting, which they use only for 
defense. 

They gather honey, which is a secretion in many flowers — 
pollen, which is the farina of various plants, and which is 
largely used in forming bee-bread, and also propolis or bee- 




Fig. 7.— Head of Worker, magnified. 
glue, a resinous substance that is used in fastening the combs 
to the* sides of hives, .and to fill cracks or open places. 

Many persons entertain the idea that the Worker bees live 
many years. Their conclusion is drawn from the fact that 
colonies inhabit the same hive for a long period ; but the 
natural life of the Worker honey-bee does not exceed six 



BEE CULTURE. 



19 



months, and from recent experiments it is ascertained that it 
does not exceed six or eight weeks in the height of the honey 
season. Those reared in the fall, having little out-door work 
to perform, will live till the spring. None of them die of 




Fig. 8.— Anterior Leg of Worker, magnified. 

old age, but the majority work themselves to death, and many 
are killed through other causes. 

BROOD. 

The egg is laid by the Queen, in the bottom of the cell ; in 
three days it hatches into a small, white worm, called larva, 
which being fed by the bees, increases rapidly in size ; when 
this larva nearly fills the cell, it is closed up by the bees. 




Tig. 9.— Eggs and Brood. 

The time usually taken for this process is eight days for the 
Worker or Queen, and 9-J- days for the Drone. 

The "Workers will develop from the egg in 21 days ; gath- 
ering honey from about 16 days after emerging from the cell. 
The Drones will hatch in 24 days, and if the weather is 
propitious they will "fly" in a few days after. The Queens 



20 BEE CULTURE, 

mature in 16 days, and are able to fly in a few hours after 
emerging from the cell. 

Until the 17th day the workers seem only to be fit for the 
work of the hive. Before that age they seldom leave the 
hive — their labors being confined to the building of the 
comb, nursing the brood, feeding the larvae, capping brood 
and honey cells, &c. 

PRODUCTION OF WAX AND COMB. 

This subject is an intensely interesting study. Before 
the time of Huber, it was generally supposed that wax was 
made from bee-bread ; but Huber fully demonstrated that 
bees could construct comb from honey, without the aid of 
bee-bread. But, oxygen, being the support of animal heat, 
is essential to bees while building comb, because an extraor- 
dinary amount of heat must be generated, to enable them to 
soften the wax and mould it into such delicate forms. 

We herewith present a cut of the under surface of the Bee, 
showing the wax formation between the segments : 




. Pig. 10.— Under surface of Worker, showing Wax in Segments. 

Dr. Dtmhoff states that in new comb the thickness of the 
sides of the cells is but the 180th part of an inch ! Such 
delicate work is hardly conceivable ; and yet, bees often 
make it in the dark, on cool, cloudy days, or in the night — 
appearing never to rest. 

Prof. Duncan, professor of Geology in King's College, 



BEE CULTURE. 21 

London, in his work on the " Transformation of Insects," 
remarks as follows on this interesting subject : 

" The production of wax is one of the most remarkable 
physiological phenomena of the organization of these JTy- 
menoptera. It was generally thought, formerly, that the 
bees disgorged their wax from the mouth, and Reaumur 
•certainly held this opinion ; but John Hunter discovered the 
manner in which the wax was formed ; and it is now evident 
that the bees carry within themselves this important building 
material. The segments of the abdomen of bees overlap 
from before backwards, but when the margin of one is lifted 
up, two broad and smooth surfaces will be noticed on tne 
uncovered surface of the next wing ; these surfaces maintain 
during one part of the year two thin, white, and almost trans- 
parent laminae, which are really composed of wax. The wax 
is really secreted by some small glands which are within the 
abdomen, and it transludes through the soft and smooth 
integument between the rings or segments. It would appear 
that the sugary matters which are sucked and digested by 
the bees are to a great extent transformed into wax, which 
is to all intents and purposes a sort of fat." 

A writer in Scribners Monthly thus describes the manner 
of comb building in a new swarm : 

" When a swarm of bees is about to leave its old home 
and seek another, each bee fills itself with honey. After 
entering their new home, the gorged bees suspend themselves 
in festoons, hanging from the top of the hive. They hang 
motionless for about 24 hours. During this time the honey 
has been digested and converted into a peculiar animal oil, 
which collects itself in scales or laminae beneath the abdomi- 
nal rings. This is the wax. One of the workers, called the 
founder, then draws from its own body, by means of its 
clawed foot, a scale of wax. This it breaks down and crum- 
bles, and works with its mouth and mandibles till it becomes 
pliable, and it then issues from the mouth in the form of a 
long, narrow ribbon, made white and soft by an admixture of 
saliva from the tongue. Meanwhile the other bees are 
making ready their material in the same way. On the ceiling 
of the hive an inverted, solid arch of wax is built, and from 
this the first foundation cells are excavated, all the subse- 



22 BEE CULTURE. 

quent ones being built up and around these, which are 
usually three in number. The size and shape of the cell is 
determined by its future use ; but all comb is formed of two 
sheets of cells placed back to back, the partition walls of the 
two sheets always alternating with one another. If the 
comb is intended for brood, 25 cells of worker-brood, and 16 
of drone, go to the square inch." 

Neighbour, in his work on "The Apiary," says : 
"Wax is the animal fat of the bees, and to produce it 
requires a considerable consumption of honey, to supply the 
drain upon the system. To be capable of passing through 
the pores of the abdomen, the wax must, no doubt, be a 
liquid, oily matter, which, on making its appearance outside 
the abdominal rings, thickens, and exudes from under the 4 
medial ones, in flakes like fish-scales, one on each side ; so 
that there are 8 of these secreting cavities, "which are pecu- 
liar to the worker, not being found either in the queen or 
drone. 

" The rapidity with which comb-building progresses would 
lead to the supposition that there is a division of labor among 
bees, just as laborers convey building material to the artisans 
on the scaffold above. This work of comb-buildine? is carried 
forward in warm weather, for a cold temperature interferes, 
with the secretion of wax. Von Berlepsch declares that he 
has known cases in which a colony has built 300 square 
inches of comb in a single night !" / 

The Rev. L. L. Langstroth remarks as follows : / 
"It is an interesting fact, which seems hitherto to have 
escaped notice, that honey-gathering and comb-building go 
on simultaneously ; so that when one stops, the other ceases 
also. As soon as the honey-harvest begins to fail, so that, 
consumption is in advance of production, the bees cease to 
build new comb, even although large portions of their hives 
are unfilled. When honey no longer abounds in the fields, 
it is wisely ordered that they should not consume in comb- 
building, the treasures which may be needed for winter use. 
What safer rule could have been given them ?" 

With all our ingenuity and skill, we have been entirely- 
unable to equal the bees as builders. Only fancy what 
delicate work it takes to produce comb, the 180th part of an 



BEE CULTURE. 



23 



inch thick ! ! True, we take the wax they produce, melt it 
up, spread it into sheets, and then configurate it, showing 
the base or foundation of the cells — but there our inventive 
genius, for the present at least, " takes a rest." In compari- 
son with their workmanship, ours is as a thick sheet of 
wrapping paper to a delicate sheet of tissue paper ! 

It is estimated that it takes about 20 pounds of honey to 
produce one pound of wax ; it is therefore all-important that 
all good pieces of comb should be preserved and given again 
to the bees. 

There are three kinds of cells in a hive. The smaller ones 
are hexagonal, and a little more than one-fifth of an inch in 
diameter, and are called Worker cells ; the larger ones of the 
same shape are one-fourth of an inch in diameter, and are 




Fig. 11. — Frame of Brood. 

called Drone cells. These cells may be seen illustrated in 
Fig. 11. The smaller or "Worker cells being shown at the 
top ; the larger or Drone cells, at the bottom. The other 
cells, of different size and shape, (see Fig. 11.) are Queen 
cells ; one is shown in the centre of the engraving, and 
four more on the left. They extend vertically or diagonally 
downwards, and very much resemble a peanut in form and 
size — they are simply the birth-place of Queens, and are 



24 BEE CULTURE. 

only built in swarming time, or when the colony is rearing a 
Queen. The Worker or Drone cells are used not only for 
brood-rearing, but also for storing honey and pollen, or bee- 
bread. 

At first when the combs are built, they are generally trans- 
parently white, but with age and use for brood-rearing they 
become dark and opaque. The thin cocoons lining the cells, 
help to make them so ; such are, however, just as valuable 
for breeding purposes for a long time, or until the size is 
materially diminished, thereby causing dwarfed brood. It is 
also valuable for storing honey, where the Extractor is used. 

POLLEN OR BEE BREAD. 

This is the fertilizing dust, or fine meal-like substance, 
which the bees procure from the stamens of flowers. When 
deprived of bloom, they will take flour in lieu thereof. Bees 
collect pollen and carry it in their pollen baskets (Fig. 43, A.) 
to the hive and store it for daily or future use. 

When mixed with honey it is used to feed the young ; 
older bees use it also for food, to elaborate wax, &c. 

Bees only gather one kind of pollen at a time. While 
different bees may carry in several colors at the same time, 
the pellets on any one bee will be all alike. 

Bees require water when comb-building and brood-rearing 
is going on, and should have access to it. 

PROPOLIS OR BEE GLUE. 

This is also collected, like pollen, by the bees, from resin- 
ous buds, and is used for fastening combs, coating uneven 
surfaces, and filling up cracks within the hive. They also 
sometimes use it in hermetically sealing up any offensive 
matter that may be too burdensome for them to remove from 
their hives. 



THE ESTABLISHMENT OF AN APIARY. 



SITUATION, STOCKING AND ARRANGEMENT. 

An enthusiastic admirer of the elegant habits of Bees, 
presistently enquires, Did any one ever sufficiently admire — 
did he, indeed, ever notice — the entire elegance of the 
habits and pursuits of bees ? their extraction of nothing but 
the quintessence of the flowers ; their preference for those 
that have the finest and least adulterated odor ; their avoid- 
ance of everything squalid (so unlike flies) ; their eager 
ejection or exclusion of it from the hive, as the instance of 
carcasses of intruders, which, if they cannot drag away, they 
cover up and entomb ; their love of clean, quiet, and delicate 
neighborhoods — thymy places with brooks ; their singularly 
clean arrangement of so liquid and adhesive a thing as 
honey, from which they issue forth to their work as if they 
had nothing to do with it ; their combination with honey- 
making, of the elegant manufacture of wax, of which they 
make their apartments ; their orderly policy ; their delight 
in sunshine ; their apparent indifference to anything regard- 
ing themselves, apart from the common good ? 

BEE-KEEPING A SCIENCE. 

To succeed in any calling, we must first gain a reasonable 
amount of knowledge of the science upon which are founded 
the rules of that art. Bee-keeping is a science, having for 
its object the attainment of a correct knowledge of all that 
pertains to the habits and instincts of these wonderful in- 
sects ; and a practical art which regards all the attainments 
thus made as the only reliable basis of successful bee-culture. 
Therefore, to make the pursuit both pleasant and profitable 
we must possess the requisite knowledge of the laws that 
govern these industrious creatures. 



26 BEE CULTURE. 

Heading and study as well as experience and observation 
are essential to obtain this knowledge. The lacking of these 
things will account for the many failures of those whose 
enthusiasm is not supported by experimental knowledge ! 

Every apiarist, therefore, must read and study, in order to 
practice the art with pleasure and profit. 

WHO SHOULD KEEP BEES ? 

Many embark in this occupation who should not ; being 
better adapted to some other. Only those should do so who 
are fond of the study of nature, particularly of the nature and 
habits of the honey bee ! They must be willing to adopt the 
valuable improvements of the present day, and keep pace 
with this progressive age ; they must be able to control them- 
selves, in order to control their bees. Such only will suc- 
ceed — while those who still cling to the brimstone and old 
fogy notions of their fathers, and who are averse to progress- 
ive bee-keeping, who shun the little pets on account of their 
pungent weapons, and when stung retaliate with more ferocity 
and less judgment than would become a mere animal — can 
never succeed, and should avoid bee-culture. 

The . careless, slovenly and lazy person should not keep 
bees. The care of an apiary is more than it is usually con- 
ceived to be — it is icork! Work for the brain, as well as 
the hands and feet ! 

SUITABLE LOCATION. 

As this work is intended principally for beginners and 
those unacquainted with the business or bee-keeping, we 
shall not discuss those questions which alone interest the 
advanced apiarist as to location, &c. We simply say : Get 
a good location where fruit and flowers abound, and where 
white clover and linden or basswood is found. Almost any- 
where within the United States will be good. 

One thing we would say: Don't go where there are 
already many other bee-keepers, for several reasons : 1st. — 
If you should have Italians, you don't want to have your 
queens fertilized by impure drones. 2d. The pasturage 
may not be sufficient to support more bees. 3d. Older bee- 
keepers may think you are " treading on their toes," and it 
may lead to unpleasant feelings, and a disastrous competition. 



BEE CULTURE. 27 

A territory of three or four miles all alone is quite a luxury, 
if you intend keeping bees for profit. 

Our apiary is located in Chicago, close to one of 
the main thoroughfares and street-car lines, and the results 
in both increase of colonies and honey has been exceedingly 
satisfactory. Mr. Muth, of Cincinnati, has his apiary on 
the roof of his store — and is successful with it. 

We use saw-dust under and around the hives, to prevent 
the springing up of grass to the annoyance of the bees. — 
Some use sand or gravel for the same object, with success. 

A timber range is very desirable, for a large portion of 
their hone} 7 and pollen they gather from timber and shrubs. 
Many good localities are found near rivers or streamlets, 
where linden, sumac, maple, willow, cottonwood, and other 
trees, shrubs and vines that yield honey and pollen abound. 

The bees should be near the house, or where they can be 
heard when they swarm. They should be so located that the 
north and west winds would not strike them, where they can 
have a warm, calm place to alight. 

A hedge, high board-fence, or building on the north and 
west are a protection against the strong winds which destroy 
very many laboring bees in the spring, when one bee is worth 
as much as a dozen in the latter part of summer, as they are 
then much needed to care for the brood and keep it warm. 

If, in April, the day has been rather warm and the evening 
cool and windy, hundreds of bees may be found on the 
ground in front of the hive, perhaps loaded with pollen, but 
exhausted from the flight and chilled with cold. As they 
approach the hive they relax their exertions, and a light 
whiff of wind dashes them to the ground, from which they 
are unable to arise, and before the sun could warm them up, the 
next morning, they will be dead. 

If you have no shade for your bees, it would be best to 
plant fruit trees among them. These would not only supply 
them with pollen and honey in blooming time, but acceptable 
shade in hot summer days. Another thing is apparent, i. e., 
the fruit would be a remuneration. The bees would fructify 
the trees and make them to bear plentifully — while in return, 
the trees would afford to the bees that shade which they so 
much require, from the burning rays of the sun. 



28 BEE CULTURE. 

WHICH WAY SHOULD HIVES FACE. 

There seems to be no facing superior to the one that allows, 
the sun's rays to shine directly into the entrance of a hive 
at 11:30 a. m. There is not a difference of any consequence 
between a south, south-east or south-west aspect, and selection 
may be made to suit the apiarist's notion. Next to this, we 
should say, face to the east ; if this is impossible, then west 
— and when no other is available, submit to a north frontage. 

WHEN TO COMMENCE. 

The reason why many are unsuccessful is that they com- 
mence at the wrong time. It may have been noticed that 
about every third year has been a poor season for bees. 
After such a season but few will commence ; while, if the 
next is a good one, many think the matter worthy of their 
attention, and if this is followed by another prosperous year, 
they then decide to embark. But alas, that is just the time 
to meet the third year's reverse. Those, therefore, who 
engage in the business should not be discouraged at one 
reverse. 

Early in the spring is the best time to begin — -and thus 
secure an increase of bees as well as honey the first year. 

HOW MANY COLONIES TO BEGIN WITH. 

Purchase a colony from some reliable! breeder or dealer, 
and in order to get experience, increase/ from one or two 
colonies — not more. 

As it is essential to know what to do, when to do it, and 
how to do it, we cannot too strongly advise the beginner to 
purchase a good manual of the apiary, and study it well. 
This is absolutely essential to success. 

removing bees. 

After procuring the bees and selecting the location and 
position in the apiary, the next thing is to know when and 
how to remove the bees. In the spring or fall will be the best 
time to remove them. In the hot weather the combs maybe 
broken down in transit, and general ruin maybe the result. 

In September or October they may be removed with safety, 



BEE CULTURE. 29 

but the best time to begin an apiary is in April or May. 
Only strong colonies should be purchased, unless nuclei colo- 
nies are desired in the spring to build up into strong ones by 
the fall. 

If the distance is less than half a mile, thev should be 
removed late in the fall, or the purchaser may lose heavily by 
the bees going back to their old location. Only a few days 
since, we heard of a man buying a few colonies of bees of 
his neighbor ; and, to his surprise, only the young bees, brood 
and Queen remained, after a few days — the old ones having 
gone back to their former location, and either died in trying 
to find their old home or united with other colonics. 

It is necessary, however, for their health that shortly after 
completing their journey they should have one or two fine 
days on which they can go out and relieve themselves. The 
disturbance created by transport causes every bee to fill itself 
with honey, and the condition thereby induced is unfavorable 
to lengthened confinement. We can always calculate on a 
fine day occurring after a short interval, in the fall — but one 
suitable for bee flight may not happen in winter till after the 
lapse of several weeks. If bees eat freely, and are constrained 
by an inclement atmosphere to remain long within their hives, 
evil consequences follow. This is what sometimes causes 
destruction to colonies moved in winter. 

WHAT KIND OF BEES TO GET. 

Some prefer to purchase black bees in box hives, and then 
transfer them to movable frame hives in order to get expe- 
rience. In that case, they should be populous colonies with 
the comb yellow or brown. Then the honey received will 
help to pay for the cost of transferring. 

The best satisfaction may be obtained by purchasing strong 
Italian colonies in the spring. Such will, doubtless, in a few 
seasons, pay for themselves, thus proving the cheapest in the 
end, though a little more outlay is'required at first. One 
such colony is worth two of the former. 

To examine a box hive, incline it to one side, looking 
from the bottom up, between the combs. By using a smoker, 
the bees may be driven back, and one may discover if it has 



30 BEE CULTURE. 

capped brood, larvae and plenty of bees. It should have such. 
to be considered in good condition, 

BUYING " SWARMS." 

A first swarm is always to be preferred, and if possible 
from a hive that swarmed the previous year, for then the old 
queen will be in her second year, vigorous and at her best. 
A small, second swarm should be passed by, in purchasing. 
Arrange the frames If inches from centre to centre ; tilt the 
hive forward, at an angle of 20 to 25 degrees, and they will 
be almost certain to build straight on the comb-guides. If 
an old hive is purchased, let it be a heavy one in the spring, 
with straight comb coming entirely down to the bottom of 
the frames. 

HOW TO CARE FOR A FIRST COLON V. 

If it comes by express or freight, from a dealer or bee 
raiser — take it home carefully in a spring wagon. Be sure 
that the combs run lengthwise of the wagon ; drive slowly 
and handle with care. Place the hive in the position you 
wish it to occupy, and let it remain till evening, when the 
wire cloth that is usually nailed over the entrance may be 
removed, and some board or other obstacle placed in front of 
the hive, so that when the bees come out in the morning, 
they will circle around and mark the location, before going 
to their work, and thus return in due time with safety. — 
About mid-day, it may be well to open the hive and see 
whether any combs are broken down, and if so, get them 
straightened up, and fastened either with twine or wire, until 
the bees have secured them, when such fastenings should be 
removed. Be sure to smoke them well, before opening the 
hive. 

BEES KEPT ON SHARES. 

As some may desire to keep bees " on shares" — though 
we never think it desirable to do so, as it so often leads to 
misunderstandings and quarrels — we will give the usual 
" terms " of such contracts : 

It is usual for one party to furnish the hives of bees, and 
the other party the care and labor. The expense of new 
hives, surplus boxes, comb foundation and queens is usually 



BEE CULTURE. . 31 

divided equally, and at the end of the season the honey and 
increase of bees are equally divided — leaving each to take all 
chances of marketing, as well as wintering. 

Always make a written contract, stating the agreement in 
full, and then there will be less liability of a misunderstanding. 

BEES MARKING THEIR LOCATION. 

This is done through the sense of sight. A large per- 
centage of the bees that fly out in the early spring are those 
that have come into being during the winter and early spring; 
consequently they do not leave the hive in a straight line, 
but only go a few inches, then turn their heads towards the 
hive and oscillate back and forth in front of it ; then moving 
further back, still hovering in front of the hive, with their 
heads towards the entrance, occasionally advancing towards 
it, as if to note more particularly the place of entrance and its 
immediate surroundings, they then increase the distance, 
taking a survey of buildings, trees, fences, or other noticeable 
objects near by, after which they return to the hive, and start 
in a direct line from it. On returning, they come directly to 
the hive and enter ; the surrounding objects and the color of 
the hive are all noted by the bees. 

CHANGING THE LOCATION. 

It is desirable not to change the location of hives, unless 
it becomes absolutely necessary to do so. After the bees 
have become familiar with their location, should the hive be 
moved a few feet, they will not notice it when departing on 
their daily rounds, and if there are other hives near, they 
may perish in attempting to enter other hives or in wander- 
ing about, seeking their own home. 

When it becomes necessary to move the hives, it should 
be done gradually, not exceeding the breadth of the hive 
each day. Or if they are to be moved several rods, alarm 
them by smoke blown into the entrance, then close it, and 
remove, placing some obstacle before the hive previous to 
opening the entrance again. In moving half a mile or more, 
the result is different ; they note the new locality and return 
to it. 



32 , • BEE CULTURE. 

PREPARATION OF BEES FOR WINTER. 

The conditions for out-door wintering with success, are : — 
Strong colonies, secured by late breeding, 30 pounds of good, 
capped honey, and vigorous queens. If hives are packed 
with good, dry, absorbing material, with an air space of two 
or three inches below them, and an opportunity given for 
the moisture generated by the bees to gradually pass off, 
without permitting a draft of air through the hives, there will 
be no trouble with them, either in winter or spring. 

T. B. Miner, an apiarist of considerable experience, says : 
u When hives are set about a foot apart, upon low stands, 
they may be protected by driving stakes on both sides of 
them, (front and rear), and at the ends ; and then fill in 
compactly all around them with hay or straw, two or three 
inches thick, with a temporary roof of boards to keep the 
straw dry. This protection is sufficient for any latitude, 
however cold it may be, and enables the bees to winter with 
as little loss generally as occurs under any other system. — 
The passage-ways to the hives must not be obstructed by the 
straw, as bees require an occasional flight in mild weather. 
Another way is to have cheap, outside boxes made, open 
at both ends, which are to be placed over the hives, and the 
open space (two or three inches) on each/ side filled with 
straw, packed in firmly. A hole in each box, cut out in 
front of the openings in the hives, having something placed 
in it to keep the passage-way from being shut up with straw, 
will afford the bees egress and ingress;, when it is safe to 
allow them to take a flight." 

The requirements to winter bees in cellars are, dryness 
and darkness, with the thermometer ranging from 35 to 45 
degrees ; prolific queens, 30 pounds of good, capped honey, 
(no glucose, nor uncapped honey that will ferment,) a quilt 
over the frames to absorb the moisture, and a free passage for 
air all around and below the hives, to prevent dampness, and 
a ventilator running to the bottom of the cellar, to carry off 
the impure air. 

Mrs. Harrison remarks very pithily : " The truth in a 
nut-shell, with regard to wintering bees, appears to be this : 
Confine the bees to as small a space as they can crowd into, 
with a plenty of good food, pure air, warmth and dryness." 



BEE CULTURE. 33 

If the cellar gets too warm, cool it ; if too cold, warm it. — 
Let them remain until settled warm weather comes in the 
spring, and thus avoid "dwindling," by bees flying out and 
becoming chilled, not being able to return to their hives. 

CLIPPING THE QUEEN'S WING. 

This is done to prevent her from leaving with a swarm. In 
attempting to ily she will fall to the ground in front of the 
hive, and the bees missing her, will return to the hive. This 
must not be done until after the queen has met the drones, 
or she will remain unfertile for life. To perform the opera- 
tion, open the hive and lift the frame carefully, and avoid 
jars ; when the queen is seen — with a pair of sharp-pointed 
scissors, lift one of the front wings and cut off about one-half 
of it. It is better that she be walking, or at least standing, 
so that a leg be not cut off with the wing. She should not 
be handled ; if it becomes necessary to pick her up, be sure 
not to take her by the abdomen. She may be held by the 
wings without danger. 

BEE ENEMIES. 

The greatest enemy the bee has is man's "ignorance." 
Strong colonies of Italians are proof against the moth, but 
not against "ignorance" in their keeper. 

LUCK OR SCIENCE ? WHICH ? 

While some are said to be lucky with bees — others could 
never have any luck with them. Some will not sell their 
Dees, others will not even give them away ! Still others will 
neither sell nor give them away, but will allow them to be 
stolen, if sufficient money be left on the stand to cover their 
value. Some superstitious ones contend that when a member 
of the family dies, some one must go and whisper it to the 
bees or they will do no good afterwards. A host of other 
whims could be arrayed, belonging to the age of' superstition. 

A vigorous writer correctly affirms that " practical knowl- 
edge is the only secret of success." Stock-growers tell us if 
they want to raise good stock they must attend to them, take 
pleasure in being with them, caring for and administering to 
their wants. This is precisely the case with bees, and this 
is the sole secret of success which the ignorant and lazy 
ascribe to good luck. 



34 BEE CULTURE. 

WILL BEES INJURE FRUIT ? 

Bees never puncture fruit, and unless the skin has been 
broken by other insects or birds, they never molest it. Any 
one can easily determine whether bees injure grapes or not. 
We know it is charged against them by some persons, but if 
any one will take some grapes and hang them up in the apiary 
where the bees have full access to them, the matter can be 
easily demonstrated. This experiment has often been tried, 
but we have never yet heard of a single instance where the 
bees have punctured even one grape. 

. HONEY BLOOM. 

Nearly all the flowering trees and plants of the vegetable 
kingdom yield honey and pollen. 

In earliest spring comes the bloom of myriads of fruit 
trees, with the maples, poplar, Judas tree, dandelions, wil- 
lows, &c. 

In May we have the white sage, sumac, wistarias, bar- 
berry, &c. 

During June, the white clover abounds ; also the alsike 
and melilot clovers, honey-suckle, white sage, motherwort 
borage, cotton, milk-weeds, mustards, rape, St. John's wort, 
mignonette, okra, mints, tulips, elders, teasel, raspberries, &c. 

July gives us the basswood, figwort, sour-wood bloom, 
boneset, button-bush, catnip, &c. / 

While August and September presents/us with buckwheat, 
sunflowers, and myriads of golden rods and fall flowers, 
generally. 

Honey-dew is also a source of considerable honey in some 
sections of the eountry. 

Every apiarist should acquaint himself with the honey- 
plants of his locality, and with the time of their coming into 
bloom. By so doing he may make calculations in advance, 
and have the bees in condition to take advantage of the honey 
harvests as they occur. 



HIVES AND SURPLUS HONEY RECEPTACLES. 



WHAT HIVE TO USE. 

Indefatigable industry is the peculiar characteristic of the 
Bees. During the height of their harvest, they often sally 
forth even before the rising of the orb of day, and when the 
short twilight of evening has cast its somber mantle over the 
face of nature, they may sometimes be seen returning to 
their homes laden with sweets, which, but for their industry, 
would be forever lost. Neither the scorching rays of the 
sun, nor wind, nor storm, will stop them ; they avail them- 
selves of every moment that can be employed to advantage, 
when the fields are decked with flowers containing the 
precious nectar ! 

The Creator gave to the Bees no written law, but to guide 
their labors, He imparted to them instinct to a surprising 
degree. When the faded bloom and darkened horizon indi- 
cate the approach of winter, they look to their hoarded stores 
for sustenance till the early flowers of spring put in an 
appearance. 

As they provide abundantly, their keeper may reasonably 
call for the surplus, after supplying their own necessities. — 
For this he should supply them with a neat and comfortable 
home, having all the conveniences for storing the precious 
nectar in convenient and attractive shape. It is, therefore, 
a matter of some moment to decide what style of hive will 
best accommodate them as well as their master. 

A good hive will give the apiarist complete control of the 
frames of comb, and afford no harbor for moths. It must 
give sufficient room for the breeding apartment as well as for 
surplus honey, and must admit of close scrutiny and easy 
manipulation. Almost the universal opinion is that the one 
best adapted to all this is 



36 



BEE CULTURE. 



THE LANGSTROTH HIVE. 

Though movable-frame hives were in use in Europe, in 
rude form, as early as 1795, they were not at all practical 
until the illustrious German, Dzierzon, invented a hive, in 
1848, and our own distinguished and honored Langstroth, in 
1852, presented the world with one that has, with his 
system of management, completely revolutionized bee-keeping 
everywhere, making it a practical science. 

The patent which was issued to the Rev. L. L. Langstroth 
in 1852 expired in 1873, and there is now no patent either on 
his hive or frame. 

With the movable-frame hive, all the combs can be taken 
out and replaced, or exchanged with other hives at will, 
without the least detriment to the bees. The combs having 
a surplus of honey can be emptied with the Extractor, with- 




Fig. 12. — Old-style Langstroth Hive. 

out injury, and returned to the hive to be refilled, — thus 
saving labor for the bees in making new combs, and honey 
for their keeper. 

The Queen can be found, examined, and, when necessary, 
can be replaced by one more prolific, or one in some other 
way more desirable ; and artificial colonies can be made at 
will, as we shall see hereafter. If a colony be weak, it can 
be strengthened by giving it a frame or two of brood from 
some other hive. In fact, the movable frame makes the 
bee-keeper " the master of the situation." 

Hives without movable frames, in some form, are far 
behind the times, and no scientific bee-keeper would for a 



BEE CULTURE. 



37 



moment consent to use them. Drawers, moth traps, nails or 
blocks to keep frames apart, stops to keep them from slipping, 
<fec, are generally useless. Nearly everything about a hive 
that is valuable is now public property. Proper manage- 
ment of the bees, however, has much more to do with good 
results than any form of hive or size of frame. 

The Langstroth frame is now very generally used all over 
the United States, and we must say we much prefer it, and 
believe it will ere long supplant all others. The beginner, 
therefore, can do no better than to adopt it. The old-style 
Langstroth hive, (Fig. 12,) is now in general use, but from 
the advantages presented in the new Langstroth Hive with 
manipulating side, (Fig. 13,) we think it will soon become a 
universal favorite with those who desire to manipulate their 
bees with comfort and facility, and secure their honey in the 
most approved manner. 




Fig. 13—T/ie New Langstroth Hive. 

This improvement on the old Langstroth Hive is exceed- 
ingly valuable, as it allows the closest watching of a colony 
with the greatest ease and comfort. By turning the thumb- 
screw (L) and opening the movable side (which takes but an 
instant) the frames can be examined, and by removing the 
loose side-board (M), the bottom-board may be cleansed — 
giving all the advantages of a loose bottom-board, without its 
disadvantages. 

This Hive is a combination of the Langstroth Hive and 
North Star Hive — as patented June 5, 1877, by Sperry & 



38 



BEE CULTURE. 



Chandler, New London, Minn. — and, no doubt, will receive 
universal approbation as soon as its advantages are known. 

The New Langstroth Hive is peculiarly adapted for the 
production of comb honey — its Honey Rack (Fig. 14) is the 
best in use, and perfectly adapted to the use of the Prize 
Boxes. It holds 18 Prize Boxes, with the separators 
between them, marked B B in the cut. The wedge (A) 
holds all with a vise-like grasp. The outer boxes are glassed 
(C C C) as they stand on the hive. By removing the wedge 
(A) any box may be instantly removed, examined, returned, 




Fig. Ik— Comb-Honey Back. 

or replaced by an empty one — the spaces between the rows 
readily admitting the fingers for that purpose. 

THE PRODUCTION OP CHOICE HONEY. 



In no country on the face of the eartjris honey produced, 
either in ancient or modern times, /that can excel or even 
equal that produced in America. Nature has supplied this 
vast Continent with honey-sources as varied and plenteous as 
can be found anywhere in the world. And within the past 
few years, many improved methods and appliances have been 
invented for the increased production of honey, as well as to 
multiply the volume and vastly enrich the quality of this 
product. Simultaneously with these improvements, we find 
the consequent increased consumption. Heretofore it was a 
luxury enjoyed only by a few — but it will, ere long, again 
take its place among the staple articles in general use. Im- 
provements in the management and culture, as well as 
increased production, has brought the price down to that 
which can be afforded by every family. 



BEE CULTURE. 



39 



HOW TO PROCURE THE BEST COMB HONEY. 

Not only should we forsake the log-gums and rude straw 
and box hives of our fathers, and give these busy little 
workers a neater home with movable frames to contain their 
combs, but we should teach them to store their surplus honey 
in small sectional frames and boxes (Figs. 15, 16, 17,) so that 
it can be easily taken from the hives when full, and marketed 
in convenient shape, suited to the requirements of retail 
purchasers. 




Fig. 15.— The Prize Honey Box. 

This box (Fig. 15) is 5^x6 J- inches outside — the sides are 
-^ of an inch thick and 2 inches wide, while the top and bottom 
are £ of an inch thick,- and If inches wide, the whole weigh- 
ing but 2 ounces. It is the favorite box for marketing comb 
honey, and is made so that it can be glassed or not, as may 
be demanded by the market. Honey in this box was awarded 
the Thurber Gold Medal, in New York, October, 1877, by the 
National Bee-Keepers' Convention, then in session at Cooper's 
Institute ; and honey in this box everywhere commands the 
highest market prices. 

The top and bottom being narrower allows room for the 
glass, and when put on the hive, the space being then doubled 
by two boxes coming together, leaves ample means of ingress 
and egress for the bees. 




Fig. 16. — Prize Honey Box, not glassed. 

The dove-tailed section (Fig. 16) is made of the same 
thickness at both top and sides, being about three-sixteenths 



40 



BEE CULTURE. 



of an inch, and being dove-tailed, can be put together without 
nailing. The objection to them, is that they are much 
weaker than those nailed ; and if it becomes necessary to 
nail them, there is no economy in their use. They are 



intended to be used without glass. 




Fig. 17. Moore's Honey Box. 

This is suited to the same or any other box that it is 
desired to glass — the two glasses being placed loosely on 
either side of the box, and then a neat cap, (Fig. 17) being 
previously glued, is placed on^the top and bottom of the 
section, holding the glass in position, as well as being an 
excellent protection from leakage when packed together. 




Fig. 18.— Case of Prize Boxes for Langstroth Hive. 

This case (Fig. 18) is made of \ inch lumber, 2 inches 
wide, and holds three Prize Boxes. Such an arrangement 
must have a seven-inch story made for it, which may be 
lifted on and off the hive in one piece. It holds 21 Prize 
Boxes, and is used with success by many. Fig. 18 shows 



BEE CULTURE. 



41 



the tin separators on the back, one of which is attached to 
every case. This story and cases being a part of the hive — 
only the boxes are sold with the honey. 




Fig. 19. — Case of Eight Small Sections. 

This arrangement shows a Case made similar to the above, 
but of the ordinary size of aLangstroth frame, and holds eight 
small sections (Fig. 19) with tin separators between them. 
Such sections are too small to be practical. 

These are used, one on each side of the brood chamber, to 
induce the bees to start surplus storing early. When com- 
menced, if one has a second story of the same size as the 
breeding apartment, these may be placed in the centre of it 
to induce the bees to go up there and work. 




Fig. 20. — Shipping Crate to contain 12 Prize Boxes. 

The favorite shipping crate is that shown in Fig. 20 ; and 
honey packed in it is a staple article in cities, especially in 
the East. It holds one dozen of the before mentioned Prize 
Boxes or two-pound Sections, (Figs. 15, 16, 17,) and is a 
very convenient and attractive way of putting comb honey 
upon the market. Either the " crate " or the " boxes " may 
be glassed, to protect the honey from the dust of a retail 
store, and preserve it in its original condition for the con- 
sumer's use. 

Prize Boxes with a tight top-bar (2 inches wide) are used 
in the Comb-honey Back, (Fig. 14) ; those used in Cases 



42 BEE CULTURE. 

(Fig. 18) have the top and bottom bars only If inches wide — 
the Case being 2 inches in width, prevents any bees from 
going above it. 

To glass the boxes, two tin points (Fig. 21) should be in- 
serted in the top bar of "the section, -J of an inch from the 
edge, and the same in the bottom bar. Between these the 




Fig. 21. — Tin Points for 'Glassing Boxes. 

glass may be inserted, bending down the tin points closely to 
it ; the sides boing full 2 inches in width, while the top and 
bottom are -J of an inch less on either side — ^the glass will 
just make all even, nice and attractive. 

The glass may be taken off, at pleasure, by simply straight- 
ening up the tin points. Some persons paste paper over the 
joints, to keep the package air-tight. However desirable the 
latter may be, the paper is a positive detriment, for it soon 
becomes covered with fly-specks and dirt, rendering it 
unattractive to the purchaser. 

The above directions are for those used in Cases. (Fig. 
18). Those with the tight top-bar, used in the Comb-honey 
Rack, (Fig. 14) have to be fastened with the tin points at the 
bottom, as before described, anpL-atr^thV top by having a tin 
point inserted outside of the glass. 



Fig. 22. — Comb- Honey Carrier. 

This is a very desirable thing for carrying comb-honey 
(Fig. 22) from the producer to a regular purchaser, and as 



BEE CULTURE. 



43 



they can be returned to the producer free of charge, a few of 
them will answer every purpose — affording a perfectly safe 
and cheap way of transporting comb-honey in freight cars. — 
The difference in expense between " express " and " freight " 
would soon pay the cost of such carriers, even on a very 
small crop of honey. 

MAKING HIVES AND SURPLUS BOXES. 

To save trouble and annoyance in making hives, boxes, &c, it 
is best to get them cut, and ready to nail together. Should 




Fig. 23,— Foot-Power Sato. 

you intend to make them at home, a foot-power saw (Fig. 23) 
will be very essential in order to saw the material for hives, 
frames and boxes, so as to exactly fit. 



44 BEE CULTURE. 

The rapidity and accuracy with which these can be cut 
out with such a saw is perfectly astonishing, if one has the 
proper guages and appliances to do it. 

Fig. 23 shows the combined circular and scroll saw ; its 
price being $40 ; but either the scroll or circular saw alone 
may be obtained at $35. These prices include one " rip " 
and one " cross-cut " saw, 6 inches in diameter ; or 12 scroll 
saws of assorted sizes — all being supplied, however, with the 
combined machine. The circular saws reach 2 inches above 
the table. They can be " set wabbling " on the mandrel, to 
cut any desired width of groove. Any person who has one 
of these saws could not be induced to dispose of it. The 
table is 28x28 inches, and stands 35 inches from the iloor. — 
The circular saw will cut inch pine-boards at the rate of 8 
feet a minute, line measure, and will cut either thinner or 
thicker lumber. We have two of these in use in our manu- 
factory, and have sold several, every one of them giving 
entire satisfaction. 

The Hand Circular Rip Saw (Fig. 24) is of untold value for 
making hives, and " ripping " out stuff for honey boxes, sec- 
tions, &c. Its peculiar feature is that the saw, mandrel and 
balance wheel, slide together on planed ways, similar to a 
lathe. The saw is easily set to rip any width desired, and 
for those making their own hives, honey-boxes, &c, it is 
indispensable. It occupies but lit£le^space, and is made of 
cast steel and iron — only one piece being of wood. 

The price is only $50, and no one who has used one would 
consent to do without it for many times that sum. 

The lumber is placed between two feed rollers, "B. B.," 
which feed it to the saw. The feed can be made slow or fast 
as the operator may desire, by the cone pulleys on feed rolls 
" C. C." 

These rollers are self-adjusting to thick, thin, or uneven 
lumber. The saw can be instantly set to cut any width 
desired from a board or plank. The machine will feed to the 
saw, stuff from -J inch to 3f inches in thickness, and \ inch 
to 19f inches wide. With it, one man can do the work of 
three using the old hand-saw. Unskilled operators can do 
the work rapidly and truly. Unlike the hand saw, the work 
is square and true as that done by steam or water-power 



BEE CULTURE. 



45 



saws, and as easily dressed with the plane. An operator with 
ordinary strength and endurance can easily rip, line measure, 
600 feet of 1 inch pine, per hour, or 6,000 feet in 10 hours. 
By changing the feed to correspond with the thickness or 
hardness of the lumber, hickory, maple, ash, walnut and 
cherry can be sawed with ease, the speed cut (line measure) 




Fig. 24.— Hand Bip-Saw. 

varying from 150 to 600 feet per hour. These are not rates 
given that a man can only follow for a few minutes, but 
actual work, that can be followed up from day to day. 

HOW SHALL HONEY BE PLACED UPON THE MARKET ? 

The marketing of honey is a subject that interests every 
apiarist. In order that honey may be sold readily, it must be 
attractive ! Has it never occurred to the reader to 
inquire why bolts of muslin are labeled with pictures of 
luscious fruit ? Or why boxes of fancy toilet articles are 
adorned with lithographs of enchanting faces with bewitching 



46 BEE CULTURE. 

smiles ? Answers to such questions offer us instructive 
lessons that will pay for the learning ! Manufacturers know 
full well that in order to have their goods sell readily they 
must be attractive ! No matter how good the quality, nor 
how cheap the price — they must attract and please the eye! 

To-day, comb-honey is the preference for table use, and if 
we would cater to the public want, we must produce that 
article in the most attractive shape. This must necessarily 
be arrived at by ,growth ! We could not jump at once to 
"the most desirable shape," — but by steady, forward steps, 
we hope to approximate perfection ! 

The larger boxes of yore with many combs are rapidly 
going out of demand, and now it is difficult to dispose of 
those having more than two combs, at any price. But 
invention comes to the rescue, putting upon the market 
single-comb boxes or sections, (Figs. 15, 16, 17) of suitable 
size and shape to pack in a neat and cheaply-constructed 
crate, (Fig. 20) containing a dozen combs. 

In these boxes Gr. M. Doolittle sold 10 tons of comb-honey 
to Thurber & Co., and was awarded the $50 Grold Medal 
for "the best honey in the most marketable shape," at the 
meeting of the National Convention, in October, 1877. This 
fact suggested for it the name of the " Prize Box." 

No product of field or farm varies so much in price as 
honey ; and why ? Because the unattractive manner in 
which some put it upon the marketrcauses it to be classed as 
a second or third rate article. 

In Thurber & Co.'s price list for Dec, 1877, comb honey, of 
the best grade, is quoted at 25 cents per pound, in the Prize 
Box and Crate, while the. same honey in three -comb boxes is 
quoted a 21 cents. These are facts that need no argument. 

Tons of honey, in these Boxes, have already been exported 
to Europe, and we have no doubt but that the demand will 
increase a hundred-fold ! It only requires to be attractively 
put up, to find ready sale at remunerative prices. If we can 
meet the requirements of consumers, there will be a demand 
for all the honey that can be produced on this continent. 

As the articles for sauce decrease in the fall, the thrifty 
house-keeper looks around for something to take its place 
besides canned fruit. Honey is just the thing she desires ; 



BEE CULTURE. 47 

and it only remains for us to convince the millions of house- 
keepers of that fact, for the demand to increase and grow to 
astonishing proportions — if, indeed, the supply be kept up, 
in good and attractive shape. 

One great question, towering far above all others in import- 
ance, is : " How to dispose of honey to the best advantage." 
In vain do we talk of the best hives ; the best implements for 
every department of the apiary. — In vain do we toil and labor 
from morn till eventide, manipulating our pets and their sur- 
roundings. — In vain do we tell of the large amount of honey 
stored away in our honey houses. — Vain is all this, if we 
cannot dispose of it to advantage and thus reap the 
reward of our well doing ! 

ASSORT AND GRADE THE HONEY. 

All honey should be graded, and a scale of prices be estab- 
lished. Now, one compelled by his needs may sell honey at 
the very commencement of the season for any price that may 
be offered, and thus unintentionally break down the market, 
by giving a start at too low a rate. In this way, individual 
action is seriously damaging to the many, and works in a 
detrimental way to all honey producers. Organization could 
and should help this state of affairs. Some State Conventions 
have appointed committees to grade and then dispose of the 
honey of its members. If this were done in every State or 
district, we should hear no more of the markets being broken 
down by premature and forced sales. 

HOW TO GET BEES OUT OF HONEY BOXES. 

Place the boxes bottom upwards on the cap of the hive 
from which the boxes were taken, placing an empty box on 
the top of each one. The bees will go up into the empty box 
and cluster. They may then be shaken down in front of the 
hives they belong to. 

MANAGEMENT OP COMB HONEY. 

"Comb honey in boxes,' 1 says that excellent apiarist, Gr. M. 
Doolittle, " should be taken from the hive as soon as it is 
finished, or as soon thereafter as possible. No apiarist can 
expect to have his honey sell for the highest market price if 



48 BEE CULTURE. 

he allows it to stay in the hives for weeks after it has been 
sealed over, allowing the bees to give the combs a dirty, yel- 
low color, by constantly traveling over it. All box-honey 
producers know that there always will be cells next to the 
box that are partly filled with honey, but not sealed over, and 
when taken from the hive, if the box is turned over sidewise, 
the honey being thin, will run out, making sticky work. The 
remedy for this is a small, warm room. Bees evaporate their 
honey by heat, and therefore, if we expect to keep our honey 
in good condition for market, we must keep it as the bees do, 
in such a position that it will grow thicker, instead of thinner 
all the while. Our honey room is situated on the south side 
of our shop, and is about 7 ft. square, by 9 ft. high. We have 
a large window in it, and the whole south side is painted a 
dark color, to draw the heat. In it the mercury stands from 
80° to 90°, while our honey is in it ; and when we crate it for 
market, we can tip our boxes as much as we please, and no 
honey will drip, neither will any of the combs have a watery 
appearance — all will be bright, dry and clean. 

"But if we keep honey thus warm, the moth will make its 
appearance, and make it unfit for market, by gnawing off the 
sealing from our beautiful combs, and also by their sickening 
appearance in the boxes. We will give the way we manage. 
We build a platform on either side ofour honey room, of 
scantling, about 1 6 inches high, anckon this we place the 
boxes, so that the fumes from burning sulphur can enter each 
box, (the prize boxes pile admirably for this purpose) ; in 
about two weeks we fumigate, by burning -f of a pound of sul- 
phur for every 200 cubic feet in the room. We take coals 
from the stove and put them in an old kettle, so as not to get 
anything on fire ] pour on the sulphur and push it under the 
pile of honey, and shut up the room. Watch through the 
^window, and in 15 minutes after the last fly or bee that 
chances to be in the room has died, open the door and let out 
the smoke, for if it stands too long, the smoke may settle on 
the combs and give them a greenish hue. As there may be 
a few eggs that have not yet hatched, we fumigate again in 
about 10 days, after which the honey will be free from moths, 
if you do not let millers into the room." 



THE HONEY EXTRACTOR AM) ITS USE. 



THE INVENTION OF THE EXTRACTOR. 

Following closely after the increased knowledge concern- 
ing the natural history of the Honey Bee came improvements 
in bee hives and modern appliances for obtaining the 
increased production of honey. 

Major Von Hruschka, a retired Austrian officer, who was 
then keeping bees in Italy, invented the Honey Extractor ; 
and its great value is everywhere admitted by all progressive 
bee-keepers. The original and complicated machine has 
been greatly improved in this country — the latest and best 
machine is illustrated by Fig'. 25. 

Extracted honey is obtained by the frames being uncapped 
and placed in the basket or frame-holder of a Honey Extractor, 
(Fig. 27), which being attached to a single rod in a large can 
and revolved — the centrifugal force throws out the pure 
honey from the combs, which runs down the sides of the can 
and is drawn off and placed in jars or some other desirable 
receptacle. Extracted honey is the pure liquid — minus the 
comb. 

Many Extractors have been invented, but the latest and best 
is " The Excelsior," (Fig. 25), and it costs but $12. The 
essential points to be obtained, being : one that can be easily 
taken to pieces and cleaned — one that the shaft holding the 
revolving basket in position, does not revolve in the honey — 
one that has a strainer (Fig. 26) covering the entrance to the 
honey gate — one that has sufficient room below the comb 
hasket to allow the honey to remain and ripen before drawing 
off, leaving it clean and free from sediment, and fit for bot- 
tling — one that has an over-motion and strong gearing so 
essential to ease of operation and effective work — one that 
has covers to protect the honey from insects — and one that 



50 



BEE CULTURE. 



may be easily handled. Such are all combined in " The 
Excelsior." 

Honey must be "uncapped" before extracting, therefore, 
a good honey knife is ' a necessity. Such is the Scofield 
honey knife (Fig. 28). It is made of the best steel, and is 
strong at the bend near the handle, and wide enough to 
allow the cappings to remain on the knife while running 
across the comb. 

WHEN TO USE THE HONEY EXTRACTOR. 

Honey can be extracted, if carefully done, without the 
least injury to the bees or the comb ; the latter may be 




Fig-. 25. — Excelsior Honey Extractor. 

replaced into the hive, and such have often been refilled by the 
bees within 3 or 4 days. 

When the breeding apartment becomes so full of honey 
that the queen has no room to lay, to extract it is a necessity. 
By the Extractor, too, all the honey may be taken from 
partly-filled boxes — a small comb-holder being furnished 
with each extractor for that purpose, as well as extracting 
from pieces when transferring. By its judicious use, many 



BEE CULTURE. 51 

pounds of honey can be obtained that would not be deposited 
in boxes by the bees. 

Empty combs in the spring are invaluable, and in the fall 
there are usually many surplus brood combs. By extracting 
the honey from these and carefully putting them away, you 
not only have the honey for use or sale, but also the much- 
desired combs in the spring. 

Inexperienced bee-keepers are sometimes tempted to 
extract too closely, and thus ruin the colony. The Extractor 
should only be used when there is a rapid storing of honey ? 



Fig. 26. — Strainer to cover Entrance to Honey Gate. 

and the outside frames of comb are nearly capped over. — 
Capped brood will not be injured, but there is danger in using 
the extractor when the brood is uncapped. 

To prevent swarming, the honey extractor is successfully 
used by some. Its frequent use will usually control it. — 




Fig. 27.— Comb Basket of an Extractor. 

Many swarms and large yields of honey will not be obtained 
during the same season. The one will be at the expense of 
the other. 

Honey extracted before it is capped is liable to become 
sour. It needs "ripening;" — if it be "well cured," and 
placed in a tight vessel, it will keep well. 



52 BEE CULTURE. 

HOW TO EXTRACT. 

With a good " smoker," blow some smoke in at the 
entrance of the hive ; after awhile, open it and take out the 
frames of honey you wish to extract from. Shake the bees 
from each frame by one or two sudden jars, brushing the 
remaining ones off, right over the frames into the hive, or 
down in front of the entrance, with a large feather or small 
turkey-wing. 

Place empty combs or a frame furnished with comb foun- 
dation in place of those taken from the first hive. A box, or 
carry-all, with legs and folding covers, capable of holding 
about 10 frames, and having long projecting handles is very 
convenient to carry the frames to the operating room. After 
carefully removing the " cappings " with a long, sharp knife 
(Fig. 28), from one comb, place it into the comb basket of 
the extractor, with the uncapped side outwards ; select 
another of about the same weight, and repeat the operation. 
A few turns of the crank throws out the honey. Then 
remove these frames, uncap the other side, and after extract- 




Flo. 28.— Scofield Honey Knife. 

ing the honey from them all as before^lescribed, placing them 
back into the carry- all, take them/ to the next hive to be 
extracted ; perform the same operation, using the frames just 
"extracted" from, to fill the places of those taken from the 
hive, and repeat the operation till all the hives are treated 
in the same manner that has a surplus of honey. 

By this plan, much work is saved, each colony is handled 
but once, the bees are less disturbed and will resume work 
much sooner. If desired, the frames from the last hive may 
be given to the first, after being emptied of the honey, instead 
of empty frames — if no extra combs are at hand for that 
purpose. 

This is an additional reason why only one style of hive 
should be used in an apiary — so that the frames may all be 
interchangeable. In "dividing" too, it is very essential. 



COMB FOUNDATION AND ITS USE. 



It is estimated that the workers have to consume about 20 
pounds of honey, to be able to construct 1 pound of comb. 
This being true, 1 pound of comb is equal in value to 20 
pounds of honey. If, therefore, honey is worth 15 cents per 
pound, comb cost $3 per pound, when produced by the bees. 
From this we may learn the value of comb foundation when 
supplied to the bees. 

The Comb Foundation (Fig. 29) consists of sheets of wax, 
obtained by dipping wooden or metal plates into melted wax, 
and upon being rolled through a machine (Fig. 30), indenta- 
tions are made on both sides that form the foundation of 
eells, which the bees readily accept, thin out, and work into 
comb. These corrugations are made to correspond both with 
the worker and drone cells — the latter being used for starters 
in boxes for surplus honey. Fig. 31 shows the rhombs, pyra- 




FiG. 29. — Comb Foundation. 

midal bases and cross-sections of cells. Comb foundation, 
when held up to the light, shows all these very plainly. 

RESULTS OF EXPERIMENTS. 

As a result of several experiments, we will note the follow- 
ing : A brood frame being filled with comb foundation in the 
evening, was examined the next morning, and showed that in 
12 hours about half of it had the cells built out sufficient for 
the queen to lay in them, which she had done. In 24 hours 
the comb was filled with eggs and the elongation of the cells 



54 



BEE CULTURE. 



was rapidly going on. Within 8 days, 10 combs had been 
built out, filled with worker brood, and sealed over. Only a 
very few cells had been filled with honey. The beautiful and 
regularly-built comb, with its thousands of little inhabitants, 
was marvelous indeed ! To prevent sagging and bulging, it 




Fig. 30. — Machine for making Comb Foundation. 

should not touch the bottom or sides ; it being better to leave 
^ an inch of space on either side and an inch at the bottom. 

NEW COMB IS DESIRABLE. 

Bees bred in new comb are generally much larger than 
those raised in old. The cells in the Oldicomb become smaller 
every year, as every bee that is hatched in them leaves its 
silky cocoon adhering to the walls of the cell, thus diminish- 




Fig. 31.— Bases and Cross Sections of Cells. 

ing its size, and, consequently, the size of the bee. When 
drones are bred in worker-cells (not uncommon), they are 
stunted in their growth.. To raise a queen the cell is enlarged, 



BEE CULTURE. 55 

and the larva that would', if left in a smaller cell, have been a 
worker, becomes increased in bulk, and being fed on royal 
jelly, hatches out a queen — it is safe to say that if an en- 
larged cell was not necessary to the enlarged size, the bees 
would not so uniformly require the building of large queen 
cells. 

FASTENING COMB FOUNDATION. 

It may be fastened by rubbing the edge HARD against the 
wood of the top-bar, with some iron instrument, such as a 
screw-driver, knife, &c; a little honey will keep the tool from 
sticking to the wax. Capt. Hetherington uses white milliner's 
glue for fastening it. K E. Joiner uses a cement made of 
equal parts of wax and rosin. After placing the foundation 




Fig. 32.— Carlin's Foundation Cutter. 

in position, top-bar downwards, the cement being melted over 
a lamp, with a tin teaspoon bent to a small spout, he pours 
the cement on to the upper corner of the foundation, which 
running down at the junction where foundation meets the top- 
bar, sticks it so fast that it would be hard to pull it apart 
again. Mr. Oatman has a new plan for using comb starters 
in boxes. The operation he explained to a visitor by " plac- 
ing the honey box upside-down, then cutting the piece of 
comb about an eighth of an inch longer than the depth of the 
box, then running one edge of the comb through the lower 
part of the blaze of a lighted candle until partly melted. He 
put this melted edge on the place where he wanted it to stay 
on the bottom of the box (which, when righted, would be the 
top), and crowded the other edge into place. It is very quickly 
and easily done." 

HOW TO CUT IT TO DESIRED SIZES. ' •• 

Carlin's Foundation Cutter is the neatest, cheapest, and 
best thing we know of, (Fig. 32.) It is simply a revolving 
wheel of tin, fastened into a convenient handle. ■ 



56 



BEE CULTURE. 



For cutting it into strips of uniform size, for starters in sec- 
tions and boxes, Novice has suggested a grooved board (Fig. 
33), the distance between the grooves corresponding to the 
width of the strips desired to be cut. For starters in boxes 




Fig. 33. — Grooved Board for cutting Starters evenly. 
or sections, it is quite desirable. A strip -J an inch wide is 
sufficient, making an excellent guide. 

SHOULD FOUNDATION COMB BE THIN OR THICK? 

We have just made the following experiment. We placed 
a piece of thick foundation side by side with a piece of very 
thin in a brood frame in one of our colonies. Both were ac- 
cepted readily, but the thick piece had the cells worked out 
much deeper in the same length of time. Is it not reasonable 
to conclude that as thick foundation supplies the bees with 
more material to build the cells with it is the more desirable 
for use in the breeding apartment? / 

COMB FOUNDATION IN SURPLUS BOXES. 

As starters of -| an inch in depth, it is desirable, as it in- 
duces the bees to commence operations there much sooner 
than otherwise But to put in more than that, will seriously 
damage the market for comb honey. We have had some 
honey in prize boxes that contains a regular "fish-bone." 
Comb foundation was used from one-half to two-thirds of the 
way down. Our customers frankly tell us they do not want 
any more of it. We used some of it, and found, to our dis- 
gust, that the complaint was well founded. Therefore let us 
insist that comb foundation be not used for surplus honey, 
except for starters of about one-half an inch in depth. 



BEE CULTURE. 



57 



Another lot of honey had natural-comb starters of liberal 
size, and so dark that it could be distinctly seen through the 
honey. This is worse than the use of comb foundation, for 
the flavor of the white clover honey was almost destroyed by 
the old and blackened comb used for starters. If natural 
comb be used in surplus boxes, it must be new and nice. 
Any other is but a damage to its sale as well as to its flavor. 

ARE the corrugations advantageous ? 

The result of an experiment convinces us that they are an 
advantage. We placed some plain wax sheets in a frame in 
the brood-chamber by the side of a piece of comb foundation, 
and the latter was accepted and built out into full cells before 
the plain wax sheets were disturbed. The bees will use plain 
sheets of wax, but prefer the comb foundation. 

PRESERVE THE WAX. 

The use of comb foundation bids fair to use all the avail- 
able wax in the country ; every bit of wax and old combs 




Fig. 34.— Swiss Wax Extractor. 

should therefore be preserved. By the use of a Wax Extractor 
(Fig. 34), even the oldest combs can be melted up and repro- 
duced in comb foundation, and be given again to the bees. 

A Wax Extractor costs, with a copper-bottomed boiler, only 
$5.00, and will not only soon pay for itself, but afford infinite 
delight to the apiarist. By its use all the old comb may be 
saved, utilized, and restored to the bees in comb foundation to 
be worked out into beautiful comb, forming either the cradle 
of bees or the receptacle of immaculately-pure honey. 



58 BEE CULTURE. 

FACTS WORTH REMEMBERING. 

A "chapter of well-settled facts" was written, we believe, 
by Mr. M. Metcalf, an apiarist of Michigan. From that 
chapter we select and endorse the following : 

1. All colonies of Bees should be kept in strong numbers. — A 
well garrisoned city may defy assault. 

2. A moderate increase of swarms will keep them strong, and 
secure the largest yield of honey.— As the calves are raised at the 
cost of butter and cheese, so bees are multiplied at the expense of 
honey. 

3. Bees filled with honey are not inclined to sting.— As the rob- 
ber's knife is stayed by your purse, so bees are bribed with prof- 
fered sweets. 

4. In natural swarming, bees fill themselves with honey.— Emi- 
grants to a new country carry their treasures along, as capital to 
begin with. 

5. Bees, alarmed with smoke or otherwise, instinctively seize 
upon their stores. — The householder, at the cry of fire, secures what 
he can. 

6. There should be no communication between occupied hives, 
allowing bees of one to pass into the other.— "No house is large 
enough for two families. 

7. A swarm of bees, destitute of a queen, fast dwindles away; 
and unless supplied with one, soon perishes, either by robbers or 
moths.— A country without a government, or a farm without an 
owner, soon becomes ruined. 

8. Colonies having combs insufficiently protected by bees, furnish 
a retreat for millers and food for worms.— Unguarded treasures 
invite thieves. 

9. An excess of drones should be avoided by discouraging the 
construction of the cells that produce them.— Drones are "dead- 
heads " of the hive— the useless males in the farmer's herds. 

10; The building of drone comb may, to a 
vented by securing the construction of new 
taining young queens; or by placing frames 
hives, near the centre.— "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound 
of cure." 

11. Queens are most economically reared in small colonies. — Who 
would employ ten men to do what one would do better ? 

12. Small colonies, if united in the fall, will winter more safely, 
and consume less honey.—" In union these is strength." 

13. Bees of colonies containing- fertile and unfertile queens, 
should not be put together without first " breaking them up;" i. e., 
inducing them to fill with honey, and destroying the unfertile 
queen. 

14. Natural swarming, always uncertain and perplexing, exposes 
the bee-keeper to much loss of time and money; while artificial 
swarming, or more properly, dividing colonies, securing at all times 
the presence of a worker-laying queen, doing away with all watch- 
ing and loss by flight to the woods, is both sure and economical. 



great extent, be pre- 
combs in hives con- 
to be filled, in other 



HOW TO ITALIANIZE AN APIARY. 



SUPERIORITY OF ITALIANS. 

In 1860 Italian bees were first introduced into this country. 
The race is undoubtedly superior to the German or black 
bees — though it is capable of improvement, and we think that 
the American Italians, as reared in this country, with an eye 
to " the improvement of the race," will ere long be not only 
renowned, but sought after, the world over ! In Italy, " the 
improvement of the race" is un thought of, and many of the 
queens received from that country are nothing but " scrub" 
stock, or hybrids ! 

Briefly stated, the superiority of the Italians is demon- 
strated by the following : 

1. They have longer tongues and can gather honey from 
flowers where black bees cannot. 

2. They are more industrious and persevering, and with 
the same opportunity will gather much more than black bees. 

3. They work earlier and later in the day, as well as in 
the season, often gathering stores when the blacks are idle. 

4. They are better to guard their hives against robbers, 
and all insects that are enemies to the honey bee, being almost 
proof against the ravages of the bee moth's larvae. 

5. They are more prolific, and raise their young more 
rapidly in the spring than the black bees do, and are less liable 
to breed in the winter. 

6. Queens are more readily found, as they adhere more 
tenaciously to the comb. 

7. They are more amiable than the blacks, and it is much 
easier to manipulate them. 

For these and many other reasons we strongly recommend 
Italianizing. 



60 



BEE CULTURE. 



ITALIANIZING OF THE APIARY. 

To do this, a tested Italian queen (Fig. ]) should be ob- 
tained from some reliable dealer or breeder, and introduced 
into one of the best colonies of the apiary. For, as the queen 
is the mother of the colony, to change queens is to change the 
whole character of the colony in a short space of time. To 
successfully 

INTRODUCE A QUEEN 

it will be necessary to find the queen to be superseded and 
take her away. A black queen being easily frightened, will 
hide or run away to some corner, therefore it is best to pro- 
ceed cautiously and without jarring. 

In the middle of the day, when the old bees are at work, 
open the hive, taking out the centre frame, examine both 
sides, and if the queen is not there, proceed with the adjacent 
frames till she is found. If not successful the first time, 




Fig. 35. — Mandible of Queen, greatly magnified. 

close the hive an hour or two, till the bees become quiet, and 
then repeat the operation. An Italian queen would be easily- 
found, but the blacks are more troublesome. When found, 
either destroy her or make such other disposition of her as 
may be desired ; cage the Italian queen and insert it between 
two combs containing honey which the queen may be able to 
reach at pleasure. 



BEE CULTURE. 



61 



Fig. 36 gives a good illustration of a piece of furniture 
that will be found very useful in an apiary. It is a stand on 
which to hang the first frames removed from a hive, when an 
examination of it is made. It was made by Mr. J. M. Val- 
entine, who describes it so minutely that one can readily make 
it. Usually the first frames are leaned against the hive, 
standing upon the ground, and more or less bees are injured. 
With this "Stand," they are hungup, entirely out of danger. 




Fig. 36.— Valentine's Frame Stand. 

" The uprights are l|-xf , 24 inches high ; a piece 1 inch 
square runs across the top for a handle to lift it by and to hold 
the top together. Two inches below the top-bar are hooks on 
both sides, so as to hang on two frames if desirable. Four 
inches below the bottom of the frames (when suspended on 
the hooks) is a shelf 12 inches wide, to which the uprights 
are nailed. This makes a nice place on which to lay cages, 
etc. Under this shelf is a drawer 6x8, that draws out on 
either side, in which I keep a dozen queen cages, a sharp- 
pointed knife, and a small pair of scissors/' 

In about 48 hours release the queen upon one of the combs, 



62 BEE CULTURE. 

and see how she is received. If she is attacked by the bees, 
molesting her wings and legs, return her to the cage for 
another 36 hours, after which she will, no doubt, be accepted. 
Queen cells, if any have been started, should be destroyed. 

Another plan, and one that is regularly practiced in our 
apiary with uniform success, is to make the colony queenless 
for 24 hours, and then with an Atomizer (Fig. 37) throw a 
fine spray of peppermint water over both the queen and bees, 
letting the queen loose upon one of the central combs, and 
close up the hive. The pepermint water makes the bees 



Fig. 37.— Atomizer, for Spraying Bees, 

and queen of the same scent, and, almost invariably, she is 
received with favor. The spray is so fine, that it is not the 
least detriment either to the bees, comb, brood or honey. 

With a valuable queen, where it is noti desired to take the 
least risk, a new colony may be formed, by taking hatching 
brood from several hives. Being all young bees, the queen 
will be unmolested This may be done with perfect safety. 

inserting a queen cell. 

A ripe queen cell will almost invariably be received with 
favor by a queenless colony. Of course all other queen cells 
must be destroyod. 

Fig. 38 shows a queen cell finished and sealed, containing 
an embryo queen. The orifice a is capped, and the cell-walls 
are thickened preparatory to being extended in the direction 
of the dotted lines b b. 

When the embryo queen is nearly mature, within 12 to 16 
hours of emerging, the bees begin to demolish the exterior 
compartment (Fig. 38, b &), reducing it to a level with the 
outer edge of the cap of the cell proper (Fig. 38, a). The con- 



BEE CULTURE. 



63 



vex cap, being then very prominent, is liable to be injured ; 
and, to protect it, the bees coat it with a fresh layer of wax, 
making it nearly as thick as the cell walls. Fig. 39 shows 
the cell as seen after the anterior compartment has been re- 
moved, exhibiting the convex cap a. 




Fig. 38. — Finished Queen Cell, sealed over. 

The young queen pierces a hole through the edge of the 
cover (Fig. 39, a) with her mandibles (Fig. 35), and then 
makes a circular cut along its periphery. Being thus de- 
tached from the cell walls, the cap drops, opening a circular 
passage, through which the queen emerges. 

To cut a queen cell out, commence on each side of the base 
of the cell, not nearer than half an inch, and cut upwards a 
wedge-shaped piece (see Fig. 11), being careful not to squeeze 




Fig. 39.— J. Bipe Queen Cell. 

or even to handle the base of the cell. A similar wedge- 
shaped piece must be cut out of the frame of comb that it is 
desired to put the cell into. Then carefully place the cell 
into the hole thus made, fitting it securely in position ; place 
the frame into the hive and close it up. 



64 



BEE CULTURE. 



NUCLEUS COLONIES. 

Nuclei are made by taking two or more frames, as may be 
desired (at least one of which should contain brood), with 
adhering bees, and the frame already furnished as above de- 
scribed, with a queen cell, and shaking into the hive bees 
from one or more frames, so that there may be enough 
young bees to remain after the old bees have returned to their 
former hives, to keep the temperature sufficiently high to 
hatch out the brood as well as to care for the emerging queen. 
In making up nuclei colonies be sure not to take away the 
queen with any of the frames, else the cell will be destroyed, 
and all the labor lost. 

It is better to use the regular frames for nuclei hives, and 
either use the ordinary hives with a division board (Fig. 40) 




Fig. 40. — Division Board 

to contract the brood-chamber, and economize the heat, or 
make small hives just to suit the number of frames used for 
the nuclei. 

Many inquire whether there is any patent on the ordinary 
division board or not. We say emphatically, No ! One man 
has a patent on a division board fitted up with "woolen," or 
"rubber strips," at the sides, and " lugs," or feet, at the bot- 
tom. No one need fear to use the ordinary "division board." 
A board of one piece is neither patented nor patentable ! 

As the virgin queen emerges from the nucleus to meet the 
drones, sometimes the bees will accompany her if they have 
no unceiled brood. To prevent this, two or three days after 
the queens are hatched, insert a frame containing eggs and 
young larvae in each nucleus. If the queen should be lost 



BEE CULTURE. 65 

on her bridal tour, the materials will be on hand for the bees 
to get another, should the fact be unnoticed by the apiarist. 

When the nucleus colonies are formed, set them away in 
the shade, and in two or three days the queen will be hatched, 
and a week or ten days later will become fertilized, and be 
laying ; this may be readily discovered upon examination. — 
Now the apiarist is ready for the formation of new colonies, 
without the inconvenience of natural swarming, by 

DIVIDING THE COLONIES 

Bees Swarm because it is their natural manner of increase. 
By dividing them we secure the increase without swarming^ 
and save time in watching and hiving natural swarms. This, 
however, must not be overdone. The beginner sometimes 
imagines that by dividing he can make almost any number of 
colonies from each one, forgetting that strong colonies are the 
only ones that accomplish anything. Dividing should never 
be done unless the colony be very populous and can well spare 
the bees and comb. To more than double the number of 
colonies each season is not good, unless increase is desired at 
the expense of honey. Some divide their strong colonies 
equally, or nearly so, carefully looking for the queen, putting 
her into the new hive, placing bees and brood in the centre, 
filling up with frames containing comb-foundation (Fig. 29) 
removing the hive with the queen to a new location ; leaving 
the queenless hive on the old stand, to rear for itself a queen 
from the brood it contains. If the queen be a choice one, and 
it is desired to get queens from her, this is a good plan to get 
the queen cells started for the nuclei, before described. 

But ordinarily we much prefer the nucleus plan of multi- 
plying colonies. Take one of the nucleus hives before de- 
scribed, which should be of the same pattern and size as those 
to be divided, and remove the division board. Then take a 
frame containing brood and adhering bees from each colony, 
placing them into the nucleus until it is full. Be sure not 
to take the queen away from any hive. The bees that will 
hatch out in a few days will make that nucleus a populous 
colony. Put a frame nearly filled with comb foundation (Fig. 
29) into each hive from which the frame of brood was taken, 
and in a few days they will have this all worked out into 
beautiful comb, and in all probability filled with eggs. 



66 



BEE CULTURE. 



The new colony having a young and fertile queen, and plenty 
of bees, will soon rival the old one in the vigor of its work 
Each of the nuclei can be built up in this way, giving a new 
colony every few days — or, if the apiary be large, several every 
day — and thus effectually prevent swarming. Increase being 
secured in this way, none of the colonies are disturbed, and 
the bees everywhere "pursue the even tenor of their way." 
All being kept strong in numbers they are ready for the 
honey harvest, and will work in boxes very willingly. 

Dividing should be done in the middle of the day, when the 
bees are busy in the fields and the yield of honey is abundant. 

Another plan practiced with success, is to take away the 
division board in the nucleus hive, fill the frames with comb 
foundation (Fig. 29), and exchange places with a populous 
colony, caging the queen of the nucleus for about 36 hours, 
or until her acquaintance has been made by the strange bees 
that come pouring into it from the fields— for bees will always 
return to the exact spot occupied by their home. 




Fig. 41. — Daws' Queen Nursery. 

To raise queens for the purpose of Italianizing an apiary, 
the Queen Nursery (Fig. 41), invented by Dr. Jewell Davis, 
may be used with success. Put into the cages of the nursery, 
between the tins, a few cells of sealed honey, in new comb if 
possible. Then cut from the combs of a pure Italian colony as 
many queen cells, large and well developed, as you have pre- 



BEE CULTURE. 67 

pared cages with the honey, as above. Suspend one of the 
cells in each of the cages. Good care should be taken to have 
the best cells, and not injured by bruising, handling or jarring. 
Having thus supplied each cage of the nursery with a queen- 
cell and food — the food is thus supplied that the young queens 
may not starve if the bees do not feed them, a thing they 
often fail to do when there is a scarcity of honey in the flowers. 
The nursery cages so prepared are adjusted in the nursery 
frame. Then having removed a centre comb from a strong 
black colony, the queen-nursery may be placed into the vacancy 
made by the removal of the comb, there to remain until the 
queens are hatched, which will be in 3 or 4 days, if the cells 
were not cut from the combs too early, or before the 9th day. 
When the queens have emerged from the cells, remove the 
cage and introduce the caged queen to a black colony, libera- 
ting her on the next day about sundown — if necessary, spray- 
ing the bees with perfumed water by the atomizer (Fig. 37). 




Fig. 42.— Queen- Eegistering Slate. 

To remember dates every one has not the faculty, and yet 
all the operations of queen-rearing require that it should be 
done. For instance, the time when a choice colony was made 
queenless, to have queen cells started — the time these cells 
are given to the nuclei — the time of hatching — when the 
queens commence to lay, &c. To save time and trouble in 
remembering these and other dates, a small slate (Fig. 42), 
3x4 inches, with a hole in the center of the top, should be 
hung on the hive by a small nail with all these dates written 
thereon. A printed card tacked on to the inside of the cap 
is used by some to advantage, in keeping track of such dates. 

If the dividing of colonies be neglected, or if it is not 
desired to practice that method of increase, the bees will 
become greatly crowded for room, and will necessarily 

SWARM. 

For some days before swarm's issue the bees may be seen 
clustering at the entrance of their hive, though some come 



()8 BEE CULTURE. 

out where there are little or no indications of a swarm. 
When honey is abundant, and bees plenty, look for them to 
come forth at almost any time, from the hours of ten in the 
morning to three in the afternoon (first swarms), second and 
third from seven in the morning until four in the afternoon. 
By examining the hive it can be ascertained whether they are 
about to swarm or not. If queen cells are seen with eggs 
or larvae nearly ready to be ceiled over, a swarm may be 
expected within one or two days after the first cell is ceiled 
over, or as soon after as the weather will permit. 

After whirling a few minutes in the air, the mass of the 
bees will cluster on the branch of some convenient tree or 
bush — generally one that is shaded from the sun's rays. 

They should be hived as soon as the cluster is formed, else 
they may leave for the woods, or if another colony should 
swarm while the first was clustered, they would probably unite. 

Should the queen fail to join the bees, by reason of having 
one of her wings clipped, or for any other cause, the swarm 
will return to the hive, as soon a-s they make that discovery. 
As the bees are gorged with honey, they may be handled 
without fear of stings. 

"After swarms" being unprofitable, all but one of the queen 
cells should be destroyed, or cut out, as before described, for 
nuclei — this will prevent any more swarjms issuing. Within 
eight days the first queen will issue, and finding that she has 
no rival she will take possession, apparently having no idea 
of swarming. 

To ascertain that she has no rival she makes a peculiar 
sound — called "piping." If there is another queen in the 
cell nearly ready to emerge, it will answer by a "piping" 
sound. If this queen still in the cell is protected by the 
bees, so that the first queen cannot find and destroy it, 
she will also prepare to swarm in two or three days. After 
the departure of this swarm and the emerging of the second 
queen and her " piping " is also answered by a third queen, 
a third swarm may also issue. 

If the desire to swarm is satisfied after the departure of 
the first swarm, the queen cells will be all destroyed by the 
first young queen that emerges. 



BEE CULTURE. 69 



HOW TO HIVE A SWARM. 



If the cluster be low, it is easily performed. The queen 
is usually in the lower part of the cluster, and by finding 
"her majesty, 1 ' and placing her into a hive, which should be 
placed conveniently near for the purpose of hiving the swarm, 
and with a dipper, or any other convenient vessel, place the 
bees down in front of the hive on a sheet, or piece of paper. 
They will then crawl into the hive, and, finding the queen, 
be satisfied to remain. When the bees are in, place the hive 
where it is to remain ; a shaded position will be the best. If 
comb foundation (Fig. 29) be placed into the frames, it will 
he of very great advantage in comb building. 

If they have clustered on a branch or twig, a basket will 
be quite essential, into which to shake or brush the bees. If 
on a wall or fence, or on the trunk of a tree, brush them into 
the basket, and proceed to hive as before described. 

A frame of brood and another of honey placed into the 
new hive will be of much advantage to the bees. The 
former will prevent the swarm from leaving the hive, and 
should the queen be lost, it will give them the means of 
raising another, and the latter will give them a good start. 
By filling the other frames with comb foundation, (Fig. 29) 
they will soon be in good condition and perfectly at home in 
their new quarters. 

Sometimes a swarm will make for the woods without clus- 
tering — but this is rarely the case. 

The beating of tin pans, and all such old-fogy notions, is, of 
course, of no avail ; throwing a stream of water from a foun- 
tain pump is often done to bring down an absconding swarm, 
and cause them to alight and cluster. 

THE LOSS OF THE QUEEN. 

When the bees manifest a restless and uneasy disposition 
by running about the front of the hive and signaling each 
other, it is a sign that they have lost their queen, and they 
should be examined at once. 

Should a colony become queenless from any cause, three 
weeks may be gained by having an extra queen to give it at 
once. Upon examination, if no brood is found where the bees 
.are clustering, the colony is queenless. At any time during 



70 BEE CULTURE. 

the season, from March to October, this is a sure sign. Colo- 
nies that lose their queens during the winter have a forlorn 
appearance. The bees walk around the entrance listlessly 
and without eagerness ; but few of them go in search of either 
honey or pollen. 

No time should be lost in giving a queenless colony a comb 
of eggs or young larvae, or both, from which to raise a queen. 




Pig. 43.— Legs of an Italian Worker Bee. 

Sometimes such a colony will refuse to raise queen cells : it 
may be too weak ; its queen may be too old to lay, or they 
may have a fertile worker. If it be too weak, it should be 
united with another colony. If its queen be old, she should 
be removed and the bees given a frame of brood from a pros- 
perous colony. If it has a fertile worker the most effective 
way to get rid of it is to break up the colony, dividing it 
among strong colonies having fertile queens. 



BEE CULTURE. 



71 



Fig. 43 shows the legs of a worker bee. The two at the 
left showing the outside ; while the two at the right exhibit 
the appearance of the inside of the legs, i. e., that part 
nearest the body. Those at the top of the engraving are the 
anterior, and the lower ones are the posterior legs ; the latter 
showing the "pollen baskets" at A, A. 

WHAT ARE FERTILE WORKERS? 

Worker bees being undeveloped females, it is not strange 
that now and then one may be sufficiently developed to lay 
eggs. Some account for this by the possibility that the larva 




FIG. 44.— The Ovaries of a Fertile Worker* 

may have been adjacent to the queen cell and received some 
of the royal pabulum, given so plentifully to the queen. 

Prof. Leuckart remarks that " it results entirely from the 
development of egg-germs and eggs in the individual ovarian 
tubes — which proceeds precisely in the manner described in 
the case of the queen." As they are incapable of meeting 
the drones and becoming fully fertilized, their eggs will only 
produce drones. Fig. 44 presents a view of the genitalia of 
such a bee. It differs from the queen merely in the more 
advanced development of the ovaries. (Fig. 43, A A). Fer- 
tile workers deposit the eggs in a very irregular manner, 
caused by the tubes being very imperfectly furnished with 
eggs. 



72 



BEE CULTURE. 



TRANSFERRING BEES. 

June is the month of swarming in the Northern States, 
while in the Middle and Southern States the early and 
abundant bloom signal its advent. The best time to transfer 
bees from the common to movable-frame hives is about the 
season of swarming, though it may be done on any warm 
afternoon, when the bees are actively at work. 

A transferring board (Fig. 47), about the size of the frame, 
should be prepared in advance, by making grooves of about 
one-half an inch wide and one-fourth of an inch deep, and 
about 2 inches apart. The spaces between these grooves 
should be cushioned with several thicknesses of cloth, to 
prevent the brood from being injured when the comb is laid 
upon it. 

Transferring sticks (Fig. 46) should be prepared from some 
light, tough wood, about one-half inch longer than the frames 




Fig. 45.— Frame of Transferred Comb. 

are deep, and about one-fourth of an inch square. Fasten 
two of these sticks together with a piece of fine annealed wire, 
so as to leave about one inch of space between them, (Fig. 
46) ; attach a piece of wire to the, other end of one of the 
sticks, (Fig. 46, b.) to be used in fastening when placed 
around the frame of comb. (Fig. 45.) A small notch 
should be cut to admit the wire, and prevent slipping. — 
These sticks should be made in pairs, and be kept ready for 
use. 

TRANSFERRING FROM A BOX-HIVE. 

After smoking the bees at the entrance of a box-hive, 
remove it some distance from the old stand, leaving an 
empty hive or box in its place, to receive the bees that 



BEE CULTURE. 73 

return from the fields ; invert the hive, place an empty box 
or hive over it, of the same size and shape, wrapping a sheet 
or cloth around where they come together, leaving no cracks 
large enough for a bee to escape. By gently tapping the 
hive for some time, most of the bees, with the queen, will 
enter the upper box. When they have nearly all left the 
hive, place the upper box with the bees on the old stand. — 
Being alarmed and filled with honey, they may be handled 
without fear. 

The old hive may now be removed to a convenient room or 
building, and taken to pieces, by cutting off the nails with a 
cold chisel and prying off the ends, cutting the combs when 
taken out as near as possible to the size of the frames to be 
used. The transferring board (Fig. 47) should be placed 
upon a table or box, to be in a convenient position for 
working over it. 

The pieces of combs containing honey may be placed at 
one side till some with brood are found ; this should be put 
upon the transferring board (Fig. 47), so that when the frame 



\a 



Fig. 46. — Wired Sticks for Transferring. 

is placed in position over it, the brood may be nearly in the 
same position as it occupied in the old hive and near the top 
of the frame, as that will be the warmest position in the 
hive. With a honey knife (Fig. 28) cut these combs to 
make them fit. If more are wanted to fill the frame, use the 
combs of honey first removed from the hive. Then push the 
ends of the sticks, (Fig. 46, 5,) that have no wire attached, 
through the grooves, from the bottom of the frames, where 
the combs may need support ; the other sticks attached, place 
on the top of the comb, and fasten the ends together at the top 
of the frame, as seen in Fig. 45, to match the fastenings 
below. Place this frame in the hive, and proceed in 
the same manner with the next brood comb, and let it occupy 
the adjoining position in the hive, giving the frames contain- 
ing honey the outside position on either side. The honey 
from pieces of comb not used, and especially from all drone 
comb, should be removed with the Extractor (Fig. 25). 



74 



BEE CULTURE. 



Carry the new hive to the old stand, and empty the bees 
out of the box on a sheet, in front of the hive. See that the 
queen, as well as all the bees, enter it. To prevent robbing, 
the entrance should be contracted ; and in two or three days, 
when the bees have fastened the combs, the transferring 
sticks should be removed. Always work slowly with the 
bees, and avoid jarring. 

TRANSFERRING FROM A MOVABLE-FRAME HIVE. 

When it is desired simply to transfer from one style of 
frame to another, smoke the bees well, and after finding the 
queen and putting her in a tumbler or some secure place, 
take a frame, and shake or brush the bees off into the new 
hive ; place the frame upon the transferring board (Fig. 47) 
and cut out the comb ; place the new frame over it and cut 




Fig. 47. — Transferring Board. 

to suit that frame, in the best way possible. Then fasten as 
.before described with wired sticks, (fig. 46) ; after thus 
transferring all the combs, proceed to hive the bees as above 
directed, letting the queen loose upon one of the brood combs 
as soon as they are transferred. 

UNITING WEAK COLONIES. 

Weak colonies may be united after smoking them well, by 
removing the combs with adhering bees and placing them 
together in one hive, spraying them with peppermint water 
by an atomizer (Fig. 38), to give them all the same scent. 
Give them ventilation and close the entrance till sunset, 
placing them where the stronger of the two colonies stood. 
Swarms issuing the same day can be united peaceably. 



MANAGING AND QUIETING BEES. 



ROBBER BEES. 

If all the colonies are kept strong there is no danger of 
robbing. It is only the weak ones that are robbed. Working 
with bees at unseasonable times, leaving honey exposed in 
the apiary, &c, induces robbing. Black colonies and nuclei 
are usually the sufferers. Contracting the entrance, so that 
but a single bee can pass, is usually a cure for robbing. In 
times of scarcity of honey, the apiarist should be careful not 
to keep a hive open long, or robbing may be the result. All 
strong colonies maintain sentinels at the entrance in times of 
scarcity. Those of that colony are allowed to pass, but 
strangers are "arrested on the spot." If a colony is unable 
to defend itself, close up the entrance with wire cloth and 
remove it to the cellar, or some other convenient place, for a 
few days, and when it is returned to the old stand, contract 
the entrance to allow only one bee to pass at a time. This 
can be done with ease in the new Langstroth hive (Fig. 13). 

FEEDING BEES. 

Feeding early in the spring is advisable to stimulate breed- 
ing, and keep the colony strong, so that when the early bloom 
comes it may be strong enough to gather the delicious nectar. 
Whenever there is any necessity for it, feeding pays ; 
especially in the fall, before preparing for winter, if their 
stores are insufficient, feed them ; each colony should have at 
least 30 pounds of good capped honey. 

Extracted honey, or coffee A sugar, reduced to the consis- 
tency of honey, is best for feeding, in the absence of good 
sealed honey. The poorer grades of sugar and glucose are 
totally unfit for feeding bees. To stimulate in the spring 
one-half of a pound per day is all-sufficient for a colony. 



76 



BEE CULTURE. 



For feeding inside the hive, the Dunham feeder is good. 
It is made of tin, and is of the size of a frame, with perforated 
bottom, atmospheric pressure controlling the flow of food. 

The Van Deusen feeder is also good (Figs. 48 and 49). It 
consists of a tin can with a perforated cover. An air-tight 
connection is made between these by means of a strip of rub- 





Figs. 48 and 49.— Van Deusen Bee Feeders. 

ber. The food is poured into the tin can (Fig. 48), and is 
inverted and placed over a hole in the top of the hive or 
directly over the frames, bringing the perforated surface close 
to the bees (Fig. 49) ; they can easily remove the food with- 
out leaving the cluster. It does not ventilate the hive ; it 
can be used at any season, and is adapted to any hive. 




Fig. 50.— Shuck's Bee Feeder. 

Shuck's Bee Feeder feeds at the front entrance, any time 
in the day, without danger from robbers, as the food can be 
reached only from the inside of the hive ; it is placed on the 
alighting board, with the side (d) nearly covering the entrance. 
In the engraving, the top is cut away to show the wood divisions 
(A a) in the feed-cup ; the food is poured into it without re- 
moving, through the hole (c), which is covered with wire- 
cloth. "When done the cap (b) is closed over it, making all tight. 



BEE CULTURE. 



77 



QUIETING AND HANDLING BEES. 

Smoke is harmless and is the best thing to alarm and quiet 
bees. With a good smoker (Fig. 51), blow a little smoke in 
at the entrance before opening the hive. Give them a little 
more as you uncover the frames ; if very cross repeat the 
dose, until they yield obedience ; then they may be handled 
with safety. Handle them gently and without fear, avoiding 
all quick motions ; such usually incite them to anger. When 
honey is being stored rapidly Italians may be handled with- 
out smoke ; when there is a scarcity it is not safe to do so. 





Fig. 51. — Bingham Smoker. Fig. 52. — Bee Veil. 

To those who are commencing, and until familiarity causes 
the loss of fear, a pair of good gauntlet gloves and a veil are 
necessary, but after that fear has been overcome, a good veil 
will be sufficient. Such may be placed over a hat, the bottom 
of it coming down under the coat or vest, and when thus ad- 
justed it is a complete protection for the neck and face (Fig. 
52). It being made of white netting, it does not stain the 
clothing, and as the piece over the face is black, it can be 
seen through, nearly as well as if not worn. A good one 
costs 75 cents, and is a yard long ; common black ones, so 
short as to be undesirable, can be obtained at a less price, 
but are much dearer in the end. 



78 



BEE CULTURE. 



A pair of gauntlet rubber gloves is best for those who need 
such protection, while unaccustomed to manipulating bees. 
The advanced apiarist prefers to have the free use of his 
hands at all times. Leather gloves are used by some ; such 
can be obtained for one-half the price of rubber, but they are 
not one-half as good. A friend very pertinently remarks 
that " bees when gorged with honey are very peaceable ; when 
often handled they become accustomed to the practice, and 
when this is gently done, they will scarcely notice the dis- 
turbance. By a careful study of their habits and instinct, 
the practical apiarist may handle his bees with no more fear 
than the farmer has from the heels of his favorite horse or 
the milkmaid from her gentle cow." 

On being stung, if the poison-bag has not been emptied, 
remove it with a sharp knife, or better still, with a pair of 
tweezers so formed as to grasp the sting itself, without press- 




Fig. 54.— ScovelVs Quee 



ing on the bag. Common hair tweezers are just the thing. 
This must, however, be done very quickly, or it will be of no 
use. Grasping the bag and sting with the fingers only 
squeezes the poison out of the bag and into the wound. 
After the bag has been removed, suck the wound strongly, 
and apply a poultice of moist mud. 

SHIPPING QUEENS AND COLONIES. 

Before colonies are shipped the frames should be secured so 
that they cannot move. Old combs should be selected for ship- 
ping ; and wire cloth nailed over the entrance serves for ven- 
tilation as well as to keep the bees in the hive. Of course a 
strip of wood should be nailed each side, from the cap to the 
bottom board, to keep the whole safely together. 



BEE CULTURE. 



79 



To ship queens the Scovell Queen Cage (Fig. 54), or the 
Novice Cage (Fig. 55), should be used. Inclose a few workers 
with "Her Majesty" as li compagnons de voyage," These 
cages are already provisioned for the journey. 

BEE DISEASES. 

Dysentery in the latter part of winter and early spring is a 
malady that affects some apiaries. The bees discharge their 
excrements over the hives and combs, producing a dark ap- 
pearance and offensive odor. The cause is either fermented 
honey, improper food, or too warm and poorly ventilated 
quarters. Give them good capped honey and a cleansing 




Fig. 55. — Simplicity Queen Cage. ' 

flight. If too cold for this, out of doors, take the hive to a 
warm room, make a box, front and top of wire cloth or mus- 
quito netting, adjust it to the entrance, so the bees must 
enter it on leaving the hive. This will usually prove an 
effectual remedy. 

Foul brood is the rotting of brood in a hive ; the caps of 
the sealed brood appear indented and shriveled, and the larvae 
and young bees in unsealed cells become putrid, emitting a 
disgusting stench. With an atomizer (Fig. 37) spray the 
hive, bees, brood, honey and combs with a solution of salicylic 
acid, borax and rain water, repeated on the sixth day. Re- 
move the diseased brood from the hive and give them good 
capped honey, and if not too far advanced this may give relief. 



I3STDEX. 



PAGE. 

Ancient History of Bees and Honeyi2 

APIARY, location of 26 

Artificial Colonies, how made 65 

Bees, how to procure 28 

how many colonies to begin with. . .28 

how to get out of honey boxes 47 

kept on shares 30 

kinds in aach colony 13 

kinds to purchase 29 

when to commence keeping 28 

Bee Enemies 33 

Bee Feeders 76 

Bee Gloves 78 

Bee Keeping a Science 25 

Bee Moth 48 

Bee Smokers— the use of 77 

Bee Veil, complete face protection. . .77 

Beeswax Extractor 57 

Cases to hold " Prize Boxes " 40, 41 

Colonies— how to care for first 30 

now and when may be moved 28 

should always be strong 36 

Comb Hone y carrier 42 

Comb Building, and Cells 22, 23, 54 

new com b always desirable 54 

how made 22 

Comb Foundation 53 

are corrugations advantageous ?. . .57 

experiments with 53" 

how cut and fastened 55 

should it be thick or thin ? 56 

how to be used in Surplus Boxes. . .56 

Comb Foundation Machine 54 

Comb Honey, Apparatus to secure 38 

exporting to Europe 46 

management of 47 

marketing 45 

moth in it, cure for 48 

Diseases of Bees 79 

Dividing Colonies 65 

Division Board 64 

Drones, when necessary in a hive 17 

Dysentery 79 

Extracted Honey 49 

Facts worth Remembering 58 

Feeding, when and how to be done. . .75 

Fertile Workers 70 

Foul Brood— Cure for 79 

Frame of Transferred Comb 72 

Stand for 61 

Fruit Trees, do Bees injure them ?. .34 

Glassing Boxes 42 

Hives, the New Langstroth 3 ( > 

a good one necessary 35 

box, how to examine 29 

bees marking location of 31 

making them 43 

movable-frame 38 

nucleus colonies, how made 64 

position in the Apiary 28 

what Hive to use .35 

Honey Bloom , 34 

honey boxes .'....... 39 

extracted 49 

for sauce 47 

grading 47 

marketing 47 

Honey Extractor 49 

comb basket and strainer 51 



Page. 
Honey Extractor— continued, 

how and when to use 49, 51 

knives for 52 

wire comb baskets for 51 

Honey Knife 52 

Honey-producing Plants 33 

Introduction of Queen Cell 60 

Italia n Bees 59 

Italianizing an Apiary 59 

Langstroth Hive and Frame 36 

Location— changing, and marking it. .31 

Location of Apiary 26 

Luck or Science? Which? 33 

Mandible of Queen 60 

MARKETING HONEY 46 

crate for prize boxes 46 

Moore's Honey Box 40 

Moving Colonies 28 

Natural History of the Bee 11 

Natural Swarms— how to care for. .68 

how to prevent them 65 

Nucleus Colonies— care of 65 

Pollen or Bee Bread 24 

Propolis or Bee Glue 24 

Prize Honey Box— description of .39, 46 

Queen (Italian) 13 

cages (for shipping) 79 

clipping wing of 33, 68 

development of 13 

laying of 16 

never to be absent 69 

ovaries of 15 

piping of 68 

shipping of 79 

Queen Cells 62 

figure of 63 

how to secure 62 

introduction of 62 

Queen Nursery, its use and value. . .66 

Queen Rearing 66 

Queen Registering Slates 67 

queenlessness 70 

Races /of the Honey Bee v . .13 

Robbing, how to prevent 75 

Saw— circular foot power 43 

hand circular rip saw 44 

Sections— Dovetailed, &c 39 

Separators— now used. 38 

Shipping Crates 41 

Smokers— how and when to use 77 

Shipping Queens and Colonies 78 

Spring Dwindling 33 

Spraying Bees with Atomizer 62 

Starting an Apiary 25 

Stings 78 

Swarming, how prevented 65 

after-swarms 68 

hiving swarms 69 

purchasing 30 

Tin Points for glassing honey 42 

Transferring Bees 72 

best method of doing it 73 

Uniting Weak Colonies 74 

Valentine's Frame Stand 61 

Wax, how produced and secured. . .20, 57 

Wax Extractor 57 

Wintering, requisites to safe 32 

Workers, figure and function of. . .17, 19 
pollen baskets of 71 



THE BEST IS THE CHEAPEST! 

COFFI^TBEKKir'S 

EXCELSIOR HONEY EXTRACTOR! 

From Eight to Fourteen Dollars. 

Having made several improvements in the EXCELSIOR EXTRACTOR for 
1879, it is now offered to the Bee-Keepers of America as the MOST PERFECT 
MACHINE IN THE MARKET. The universal favor with which the EXCEL- 
SIOR EXTRACTOR was received in 18T8, has induced other manufacturers to 
adopt several of its improvements. My experience and experiments of last sea- 
son, with the assistance and suggestions of skillful workmen, have enabled me to 
perfect an Extractor that cannot be excelled, and can only^be equaled 
by being closely imitated. 

The Excelsior is made entirely of metal, and is conse- 
quently very light, strong and durable, with lugs at the 
bottom for firmly attaching to the floor if desired. 

The strong over-motion gearing, so necessary to ease 
in running and speedy operating, was designed and is 
manufactured expressly for the Excelsior. A child 
ten years of age can operate the machine as rapidly as 
it can be supplied with combs. 

The top or cross-band, to which is attached the gear- 
ing, is wrought iron, three inches broad, with the ends 
turned down in such manner as to thoroughly brace 
and strengthen the can, and holding the basket firmly 
in an upright position. 

The Comb Basket having vertical sides, insures the 
extracting power alike for top and bottom of frames. 
The sides of the basket being movable and interchange- 
able, greatly facilitate the operation of dusting before 
and thoroughly cleaning after use if desired. 

The basket can be taken from or replaced in the can 
in a moment, there being no rusty screws to take out. 
or nuts to remove. 

At the bottom of the can, and below the basket, is a 
cone or metal standard, in the top of which revolves 
the bottom pivot of the basket, thereby giving room for 
sixty or seventy pounds of honey without touching the 
basket or pivot below. 

Nos. 3, 4 and 5 have strainers covering the canal lead- 
ing to the faucet, which obviate the delay of several 
hours in waiting for the honey to settle, and the tedious 
and wasteful process of skimming. The faucet being 
below the bottom level of the honey, renders unneces- 
sary the usual tipping and wrenching incident to draw- ' 
ing off the honey. These also have close-fitting metal 
covers, which entirely exclude dust, dirt, flies and bees when not in use. 

The baskets of Nos. 4 and 5 have no center rod running from top to bottom, 
which will be found very convenient by those who uncap both sides of the comb 
before putting in the basket, as they can be turned without removal. 

The strong iron handles placed at the sides, a little above the center, are com- 
pletely side-braced, and add much to convenience in handling. 

The wire baskets are very neat specimens of skillful workmanship, thoroughly 
braced at every point where experience has proven it to be most requisite, and 
nothing has been omitted that could add to its efficiency. 

The No. 4, for three frames, has a triangular basket, movable sides, no center 
rod, runs smoothly regardless of number of frames, and is fast superseding the 
demand for four-sided baskets. 

A LOWER PRICE© MA^CHTCTE. 

A cheaper machine being called for by those having but few colonies, and not 
making a specialty of bee-keeping, 1 have made a special size to take the Lang- 
stroth frame, and one for the American, to sell at SS8.00 each. These have no 
covers or strainer, and are smaller than the $12.00 and $14.00 sizes, but for the 
frames named are equal to the others for effective work, and are the best cheap 
Extractors made. 

Sizes and Prices : 

No. 1— For 2 Langstroth frames, 10x18 inches $8 00 

" 2.— For 2 American frames, 13x13 inches 8 00 

" 3.— For 2 frames, 13x20 inches, or less (which embraces all standard sizes) 12 00 
'• 4— For 3 " " " " " " 12 00 

" 5— For 4 " " " " " " 14 00 

t^~A liberal discount to dealers in Bee-Keepers' supplies and to parties order- 
ing in quantity. Address, C. C. COFFIJfBEKRT, Chicago, 111., 
Or American Bee Journal, Chicago, 111., where samples can be seen. 







IBtenettftdcfe mit beive& 
iitfyen ©eftrifetn 

•§onig=$umpen. 

3talietttfa&e Sftenettiu $t$ni$inntn* 

S5tcncn-0toii^ercr r $ienenfdjleier, ©ummi- 

ganlifdjurje, ®itnfittdje ^onigfdjei&ett* 

ftunftameitte, Soamcn fiir going* 

jpffansett, 

fottrie 2lHe§, ttm§ SBtenenjiidjter gebraudjen. 

3u b erf an fen 5 ci: 






§erau§ge6er be§ 
"The American Bee Journal*" 

The American Bee Journal totrb titottatltdj 6erau§* 
gegeben unb foftet $i. per Satyr im 2h>rau§. (Ss ift bte 
altefte 23ienen=3 e i*"n£5 in ber SSJelt, bie erfolgreidjften 
unb gebtlbetften a3ienen?iid)ter in ©uropa unb Omenta 
f #retben fiir ib>e ©palten. 

Ihos G. Newman & Son, 974 W Madison St., Chicago. 




NEW LANGSTROTH BEE HIVE, 

WITH MANIPULATING SIDE. 

This Improvement in the 
old Langstroth Hive is ex- 
ceedingly valuable, as it al- 
lows the closest watching of 
a colony with the greatest 
ease and comfort. By turn- 
ing the thumb-screw (L) and 
opening the movable side 
(which takes but an instant), 
the frames can be examined, 
and by removing the loose 
side-board (M), the bottom- 
board may be cleaned— giving 
all the advantages claimed 
for a loose bottom-board, 
without its disadvantages. 

This Hive is a combination 
of the Langstroth Hive and 
the North Star Hive— as pat- 
ented June 5, 1877— and, no 
doubt, will gain universal ap- 
probation as soon as its ad- 
vantages are known. 
The New Langstroth Hive is peculiarly adapted for the production of comb 

honey— its Honey Rack is the best in 

use, and is adapted to the use of 

the Prize Boxes, It holds 18 Prize 

Boxes, with the separators between 

them, marked B'B in the cut. The 

wedge (A) holds all with a vise-like 

grasp. The outer boxesare glassed 

as they stand on the hive (u C C).' 

P7 removing the wedge (A) any box 

may be instantly removed, exam- 
ined, returned, or replaced by an 

empty one— the spaces between the 

rows readily admitting the Angers 

for that purpose. 

SAMPLE NEW LAKGSTROTH VLITJE-NaUed, Not Painted. 

JNo. 1.— Biood Chamber, 10 frames, portico, 7%-inchcap— no surplus arrange- 
ment $2 00 

No. 2.— Same as No. 1, with Comb-Honey Rack, complete, same as shown by 

the above cuts 3 00 

.No. 8.— Same as No. 1, but having 2t frames, and Comb-Honey Rack— a com- 
plete 3-story hive 3 75 

No. 4.— Brood Chamber, 10 frames, and 7-inch story, with 7 cases containing 

Prize Boxes and tin Separators, l or surplus Honey, with 2-inch cap 3 00 

No. 5.— Same as No. 4— but having 10 extra frames— a complete 8-story hive. . 3 75 

No. 6.— Brood Chamber, with 10 extra frames, for extracting, and 2-inch cap, 3 00 

' If painted, add $L00 each. , 





MATERIAL FOR NEW IAJiGSTBOTH HIVES. 

CUT, READY TO NAIL-(l4^xl8% inches inside). 



In lots of 5 No. 1— (one-story), $1 25 

10.... " " 120 

25.... " " 110 

50. ... " " 1 05 

100.... " ■• 100 



In lots of 5 

10, 

25.... 

" 50 

100 



JSfo. 6— (two-story), $1 80 
f " "• 170 



160 
155 
150 



MATERIAL FOR LANGSTROTH FRAMES. 

CUT, READY TO NAIL— (9^x17% inches outside). 
100 frames. .... .§1 50 | 1,000 frames $14 CO | 5,000 frames, per 1,000. .$12 00 



For sale at wholesalo and retail. Addr jss 

SPERRY & CHANDLER, 974 W. Madison St., CHICAGO, 
Or at the AMERICAN BEE JOURNAL OFFICE. 




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ITALIAN QUEENS, 

FULL COLONIES, 

Movable-Frame Hives, 

Honey Extractors, 

BEE VEILS, RUBBER GLOVES, 

ARTIFICIAL COMB FOUNDATION, 
BEE SMOKERS, 

Seeds for Honey Plants, 

AND 

Everything used by Bee-Keepers, for Sale by 
THOS. G. NEWMAN & SON, Chicago. 

Every Bee-Keeper should take 




Largest, 



AND 

Reliable 



MOST 



Bee-Paper 



IN THE WORLD! 



It is the best scientific and practical Journal 
of APICUttTURE ever published. The most 
successful and experienced Bee-keepers in 
Europe, as well as America, write for it. 

TERMS: $1.50 PER ANNUM. 
A Sample Copy sent for 10 cts. 

Address, THOS. G. NEWMAN & SON, 

CHICAGO, ILL. 



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